Restaurant Review: Moxie

Off-The-Menu Specials Make Magic at Moxie

By Juliet Farmer

Tucked away between a newer townhouse/loft development and what is currently a yoga-art studio, Moxie's red doors beckon. What from the outside appears to be a fancy-ish hole in the wall, is in fact a dining space that feels like a cross between a New York City steak house and an intimate candlelit dining room. In short, it's the perfect spot for dates and anniversaries, and while heavy on the romantic ambiance, it also a great place for a first (or 100th) date.

I first experienced Moxie (and I say "experienced," because it is, in fact, an experience) shortly after the restaurant opened in mid-1995 with a group of about 15 coworkers (Moxie accommodates groups large, small, and solo). At that time, I had not yet been to NYC, so while I was impressed with the atmosphere (any restaurant with a picture of Cary Grant on the wall is fine by me!), I didn't pick up on the NYC vibe. What I was attune to was the fantastic food, generous portions, attentive service, and reasonable prices, all of which, some 16 years later, remains in effect.

For years, whether celebrating a birthday, anniversary, or just looking for a fun dining experience, my husband and I would head to Moxie, which quickly became our go-to restaurant for such occasions (I like it so much I even named my cat after the restaurant).

There was a time when I stuck to ordering from the menu, which was and is quite short. During each visit, owner Adam Chaccour would wait on us (yes, face-to-face time with the owner of the place), rattling off an extensive list of specials. I would always stick to my favorite dish—chicken artichoke. A few years ago, when it vanished from the menu, I took advantage of the menu's disclaimer, "At Moxie, you get what you want. If it's in the building (or close by) we will prepare it," and continued to order the chicken artichoke. (I have also witnessed accommodations for those with a gluten intolerance, dairy allergies, and even Atkins fans.)

Eventually, the specials got the better of me, and I ventured off the menu, never to return.

On a recent visit, after Chaccour explained some 11 main dish and four appetizer specials, my husband and I settled on an appetizer of calamari, an order of pork loin (for him) and filet mignon (for me).

The calamari was prepared in strips, lightly chili crusted, and served with a ginger-lemon-lime-jalapeno sauce. My husband is a calamari connoisseur, and he swears Moxie has the best calamari in Sacramento.

Both main dishes were served with generous portions of mashed potatoes, braised red cabbage, sautéed carrots and squash, and an impressive foliage of fried pasta and herbs. The pork loin featured a mango chutney that gave just the right sweetness to the perfectly-cooked meat. The filet mignon was topped with a portabella mushroom and cabernet reduction that was rich and satisfying.

We couldn't pick just one dessert (options included carrot cake, raspberry cheesecake, chocolate kaluha cake, crème brule, lemon sorbet, and sipping chocolate with cookies) and settled on the carrot cake and cheesecake. Both were good—the carrot cake leaning toward great.

Moxie's wine selection features three dozen varieties of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, red zin, pinot noir, syrah, and "fun" wines. The beer selection is limited and mainstream, running the gamut from Bud Lite to Blue Moon.

The success of Moxie is no surprise, given that Chaccour has previously managed many restaurants in the Sacramento area, including Lautrek Restaurant and Fish Emporium, and worked for Holiday Inn Hotels as a trainer and manager for all their food outlets. With loyal staff, including chef Joe Kogel, who has been with Moxie since the beginning, as well as Lyle Klein, Sam Chaccour, and Bill Curren, Moxie sets the bar high in hospitality, making for not just a restaurant, but an experience.

Hours: Tues – Sat 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
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