Smithsonian's "First Ladies" collection
The “First Ladies” collection at the National Museum of American History presents White House fashions dating back to the beginning of the Republic.
Pictured: Michelle Obama’s 2009 inaugural gown - a one-shouldered white silk chiffon gown embellished with organza flowers with Swarovski crystal centers, designed by Jason Wu.
The First Ladies
“The First Ladies” is one of the most popular exhibits in the entire Smithsonian.
Martha Washington
The oldest gown in the collection (pictured) belonged to Martha Washington, dating from the 1780s, while the oldest inaugural gown at the Smithsonian belonged to Emily Donelson, niece of Andrew Jackson, who wore it to his 1829 inaugural ball.
Dolley Madison
Dolley Madison’s embroidered gown. Silk satin open robe hand-embroidered with flowers, butterflies, dragonflies, and phoenixes. It is typical of the style of the late 1810s.
The First Ladies Collection
Curator Lisa Kathleen Graddy shows correspondent Rita Braver some of the Smithsonian’s collection of first lady fashion.
Mary Lincoln
Mary’ Lincoln’s purple velvet ensemble with evening bodice. This outfit is believed to have been made by African American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly and worn by the first lady during the winter social season of 1861-62.
Lucy Hayes
A gold damask and cream satin gown worn by Lucy Hayes in 1880 to the White House New Year’s reception, and later to a February reception for diplomats and members of Congress. It was made by Mrs. M.A. Connelly, a New York dressmaker.
Frances Cleveland
Frances Cleveland’s skirt and bodices. The original floral chine skirt and peach velvet bodice were probably made around 1895 by the House of Doucet of Paris. The floral bodice was created later from fabric taken out of the skirt. Baltimore dressmaker Lottie M. Barton made the green velvet bodice.
Edith Roosevelt
Edith Roosevelt’s 1905 inaugural gown. A robin’s-egg blue silk gown with a design of plumes and birds woven in gold thread. The pattern for the fabric was destroyed so that the first lady’s dress could not be copied.
Helen Taft
Helen Taft began the tradition of first ladies donating their inaugural gown to the Smithsonian. Here she wears her white chiffon gown, appliquéd with goldenrod embroideries, from 1909.
Edith Wilson
Edith Wilson’s evening dress, a black charmeuse satin trimmed with beads, black velvet, and white net, from the House of Worth in Paris. The first lady wore the dress in 1915 for a private dinner party at the White House.
Grace Coolidge
Blue satin flapper-style evening gown trimmed with dark-blue sequins and gold glass beads, worn by Grace Coolidge. She gave the dress to her White House maid, Maggie Rogers, and it was likely shortened to be worn by Maggie’s daughter, Lillian.
Lou Hoover
Lou Hoover’s dark grey silk crepe evening gown with metallic thread brocade.
Lou Hoover
Lou Hoover’s floral-patterned silk day dress fastened at the waist with a costume-jewelry brooch.
Eleanor Roosevelt
Eleanor Roosevelt’s slate-blue silk crepe evening gown designed by Sally Milgrim for the 1933 Inaugural Ball. Embroidered with a leaf-and-flower design in gold thread, it featured detachable long sleeves (not displayed). The belt buckle and shoulder clips are made of rhinestone and moonstone.
Mamie Eisenhower
Rose-colored silk damask ball gown designed by Nettie Rosenstein and worn by Mamie Eisenhower to a 1957 state dinner at the British Embassy. The ensemble included a matching purse and shoes.
Jacqueline Kennedy
Yellow silk evening gown with an overlay of crepe chiffon designed by Oleg Cassini, worn by Jacqueline Kennedy in 1961 to the Inaugural Balls.
Inaugural Ball
First lady Jacqueline Kennedy and President John F. Kennedy, with Vice President Lyndon B. Johnson, attend an inaugural ball on January 20, 1961.
Lady Bird Johnson
Lady Bird Johnson’s 1965 inaugural gown and coat. Yellow satin gown and sable-trimmed coat designed by John Moore.
Lady Bird Johnson
Aware of the tradition of donating the dress for display at the Smithsonian, Mrs. Johnson chose a simple design that she thought would age well.
Smithsonian curator Lisa Kathleen Graddy told CBS News’ Rita Braver, “It’s also said that LBJ suggested that she put sable on the sleeves, that he told her, ‘Bird, you need to dress it up some.’”
Ford front Smithsonian
Since there were no formal inaugural celebrations when Gerald Ford succeeded Richard Nixon as president, Betty Ford chose this pale-green sequined chiffon gown embroidered in a chrysanthemum pattern to represent her in the Smithsonian’s collection. The dress, worn to state dinners in 1975 and 1976, was designed by Frankie Welch.
Rosalynn Carter
Rosalynn Carter had previously worn this gold-embroidered sleeveless coat over a gold-trimmed blue chiffon gown to the 1971 ball celebrating her husband’s inauguration as governor of Georgia. The dress was designed by Mary Matise for Jimmae. For the 1977 inaugural balls Mrs. Carter wore the ensemble, carrying a purse by After Five.
Nancy Reagan
Nancy Reagan’s 1981 inaugural gown - a beaded, one-shouldered white sheath gown of lace over silk satin designed by James Galanos.
Inaugural Ball
President Ronald Reagan and first lady Nancy Reagan dance at an inaugural ball - one of nine balls they attended - at the Pension Building in Washington, D.C., Jan. 20, 1981.
Barbara Bush
Barbara Bush’s 1989 inaugural gown - a royal-blue gown with velvet bodice and asymmetrically-draped silk satin skirt, designed by Arnold Scaasi.
Hillary Rodham Clinton
Hillary Clinton’s 1993 inaugural gown - a violet beaded lace sheath gown with iridescent blue velvet silk-mousseline overskirt, designed by Sarah Phillips and made by Barbara Matera Ltd., a New York theatrical costume maker.
Inaugural Ball
President Bill Clinton dances with first lady Hillary Clinton as they stopped by the Arkansas Inaugural Ball, January 20, 1993, in Washington, D.C.
Laura Bush
Laura Bush’s 2001 inaugural gown - a ruby-red gown of crystal-embroidered Chantilly lace over silk georgette, designed by Michael Faircloth.
The First Family
First lady Laura Bush stands with daughters Barbara (left) and Jenna at the Florida Presidential Inaugural Ball at the National Building Museum in Washington, Jan. 20, 2001.
The Obamas
President Barack Obama and first lady Michelle Obama dance together at the Obama Home States Inaugural Ball in Washington, Tuesday, Jan. 20, 2009.
Inaugural Ball
Michelle wore a one-shoulder gown, which resembled a wedding dress, and was designed by Jason Wu.
Watch Rita Braver’s report from the Smithsonian
For more info:
“The First Ladies” (National History of American History)
By CBSNews.com senior producer David Morgan