This Guy Is Fresh, But In A Nice Way

Denver chef Frank Bonanno took a very fresh approach to his "Chef on a Shoestring" assignment: He based his menu on what looked the most delicious at his local farmer's market.

This son of New Jersey - home of plenty of great fruits and vegetables - loved to cook with his mother when he was growing up. His first professional cooking gig came much later, though, at Mel's Bar & Grill in Denver.

After that, he went on to work at some of the country's top restaurants, including Thomas Keller's French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and the Gramercy Tavern in New York. Both restaurants stress the use of fresh, locally grown items at the peak of their flavor.

In 2001, he and his wife, Jacqueline, opened Mizuna, a restaurant with a menu inspired by classic French techniques used for basic American fare.

The next year the Bonannos opened their second property, right around the corner. Luca D'Italia, named for their son, is where Bonanno has created a menu around house-cured meats, cheeses and pastas; he honed his skills while working in Italy's Albergo Ristorante.

Additionally, he uses his grandmother's techniques to cure Guanciale and Copocollo. Even the grappa is made in-house to follow Bonanno's philosophy that a great meal consists of two primary components: "exceptional ingredients and care."

Last summer, Bonanno rounded out his restaurant repertoire by integrating his second great obsession, golf. He signed on as the consulting chef at one of the country's top courses, Ballyneal, in Holyoke, Colo.

Arugula Salad With Local Peaches And Gorgonzola

Ingredients:
2 ripe local peaches
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 red onion
8 ounces arugula
4 ounces gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2/3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

Tools:
Paring knife, small bowl, sauté pan, large mixing bowl, 4 salad plates

1. Pit and quarter peaches. Season in a small bowl with salt and pepper.

2. Pour the extra virgin olive oil into sauté pan; turn heat to medium. Add peach slices and cook about 3 minutes, or until slightly brown

3. Peel and thinly slice onion. Combine with arugula and gorgonzola cheese in mixing bowl. Squeeze lemon over greens, sprinkle with remaining olive oil, and vinegar. Toss gently with hands. Season with salt and pepper.

To assemble:

1. Place two of the peach slices in the center of each plate. Top with a handful of salad.

Cooking Notes:

Stone fruit begins to hit its peak flavor profile in July. Pretty much through Labor Day, I try to use them often to add unexpected sweetness and depth.

Pan Roasted Cod, Fingerling Potatoes And Broccoli Rabe

Vegetables:
12 organic fingerling potatoes
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
1 garlic clove thinly sliced
1 bunch broccoli rabe
1/4 cup vermouth
6 tablespoons butter
Salt and white pepper
2 sprigs tarragon
1 lemon, halved

Tools:
Stock pot
two large sauté pans
colander
ice
four paper napkins

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Place potatoes in pot and cover with cold, salted water. Bring to boil and cook about for 15 minutes (until tender). Drain and chill in ice water to stop the cooking.

3. In a large sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add garlic and chili; cook for 30 seconds. Add broccoli rabe. Sautee for 30 seconds and add vermouth, cook for 3 minutes add 1-1/2 tablespoons butter. Cook 1 minute, then season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. In a separate sauté pan, add 3 tablespoons olive oil. Halve the potatoes and place in the pan. Cook over medium high heat, stirring occasionally for 8 minutes (until the potatoes crisp up). Add 1 tablespoon butter; season with salt and pepper. Let drain on napkins. Transfer back to pan; hold warm.

Aioli

Ingredients:
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cloves garlic minced
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 anchovy filet
Salt and pepper to taste

Tools:
Small bowl
food processor

1. Place saffron in the lemon juice and let it bloom.

2. Place garlic, mustard, egg yolk and anchovy in the food processor and pulse. Slowly add olive oil until thick. Pour in lemon juice and saffron; season with salt and pepper to taste. Hold at room temperature until ready to use (not more than 1 hour).

Cod

4 filets cod, 5 ounces each
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon flour
Salt and pepper to taste

Tools:

Sauté pan
paper towel-lined 9-inch plate

1. In a large sauté pan, place remaining olive oil over medium high heat. Season the cod with salt and white pepper. Dust lightly with flour and place in sauté pan. Cook until golden brown. Flip over and add remaining butter and tarragon.

2. Place entire pan with cod in oven for about 4 minutes. Remove; test for doneness; transfer to lined plate.

To assemble:
1. Place the potatoes in center of plate. Divide broccoli rabe and set on top of potatoes. Place the fish on top; drizzle with a little fresh squeezed lemon and a dollop of the aioli.

Cooking notes: