THE Dish: Chef Thomas Keller's "Bouchon Bakery" Quiche Lorraine
Chef Thomas Keller has won just about every award you can imagine for a chef and restauranteur, including Michelin three-star honors for Per Se, in New York City, and The French Laundry in California's Napa Valley.
He has just published his fifth cookbook, "Bouchon Bakery," with pastry chef Sebastien Rouxel.
On "CBS This Morning: Saturday" for THE Dish" segment, Keller served up Quiche Lorraine and other delicious goodies.
Special section: Food and Wine
Bacon and Onion Quiche - Quiche Lorraine
Makes 8 servings
1 pound slab bacon, cut into lardons about 1 1/2 inches long and 3/8 inch thick
2 cups Onion Confit (see below)
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons chopped thyme
1/2 cup grated Comté or Emmentaler cheese
Basic Quiche Shell (see below)
Basic Quiche Batter (see below)
Canola oil
Put a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 deg. F.
Spread the bacon on a baking sheet and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until it has rendered its fat; the bacon will not be crisp at this point. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 deg. F.
Combine the onion confit and bacon in a large saute pan over medium heat. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and thyme, then stir together until warm, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
Scatter 1/4 cup of the cheese and half the onion mixture evenly into the cooled quiche shell (still on the baking sheet). Blend the quiche batter again to aerate it, then pour in enough of the batter to cover the ingredients and fill the quiche shell approximately halfway. Top the batter with the remaining 1/4 cup cheese and the remaining onion mixture. Blend the remaining batter and fill the quiche shell all the way to the top. (If you don't have a very steady hand, you might spill some of the batter on the way to the oven; fill the shell most of the way, then pour the final amount of batter on top once the quiche is on the oven rack.)
Bake for 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours, or until the top of the quiche is browned and the custard is set when the pan is jiggled. Remove the quiche from the oven and let cool to room temperature on a rack. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 1 day, or up to 3 days.
Once the quiche is thoroughly chilled, using a metal bench scraper or a sharp knife, scrape away the excess crust from the top edge. Tilt the ring on its side, with the bottom of the quiche facing you, and run a small paring knife between the crust and the ring to release the quiche. Set the quiche down and carefully lift off the ring. Return to the refrigerator until ready to serve.
To serve: Preheat the oven to 375 deg.F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper.
Using a long serrated knife and supporting the sides of the crust, carefully cut through the edge of the crust in a sawing motion. Switch to a long slicing knife and cut through the custard and bottom crust. Repeat, cutting the quiche into 8 pieces. Place the pieces on the baking sheet and reheat for 15 minutes, or until hot throughout. To check, insert a metal skewer into the quiche for several seconds and then touch the skewer to your lip to test the temperature of the quiche.
Basic Quiche Shell
Makes enough for one 9-inch quiche
In this p»te brisée dough, it's crucial that the butter be completely incorporated, with no visible specks remaining. Although pieces of butter will make a dough flaky, they would leave holes in the quiche crust and the batter would leak out. Save the dough trimmings to repair any cracks. This crust is a little thicker than some: You want the custard to set before it soaks all the way through. Also, as the quiche chills, moisture from the custard will weep into the crust. If the crust is too thin, it will become soggy rather than crisp.
2 cups (about 12 ounces) all-purpose flour, sifted, plus additional flour for rolling
1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 ounces chilled unsalted butter, cut into »-inch pieces
1/4 cup ice water
Canola oil
Place 1 cup of the flour and the salt in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Turn the mixer to low speed and add the butter a small handful at a time. When all the butter has been added, increase the speed to medium and mix until the butter is completely blended with the flour. Reduce the speed, add the remaining flour, and mix just to combine. Add the water and mix until incorporated. The dough will come around the paddle and should feel smooth, not sticky, to the touch.
Remove the dough from the mixer and check to be certain that there are no visible pieces of butter remaining; if necessary, return the dough to the mixer and mix briefly again. Pat the dough into a 7- to 8-inch disk and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to a day. (If the dough does not rest, it will shrink as it bakes.)
Lightly brush the inside of a 9-by-2-inch-hgh ring mold with canola oil and place it on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Place the dough on a floured work surface and rub on all sides with flour. Flatten it into a larger circle using a rolling pin or the heel of your hand. Roll the rolling pin back and forth across the dough a few times, then turn it 90 degrees and roll again. Continue to turn and roll until the dough is 3/16 inch thick and about 14 inches in diameter. (If the kitchen is hot and the dough has become very soft, move it to a baking sheet and refrigerate for a few minutes.
To lift the dough into the ring, place the rolling pin across the dough about one-quarter of the way up from the bottom edge, fold the bottom edge of dough up and over the pin, and roll the dough up on the rolling pin. Lift the dough on the pin, hold it over the top edge of the ring and unroll the dough over the mold, centering it. Carefully lower the dough into the ring, pressing it gently against the sides and into the bottom corners of the ring. Trim any dough that extends more than an inch over the sides of the mold and reserve the scraps. Fold the excess dough over against the outside of the ring. (Preparing the quiche shell this way will prevent it from shrinking down the sides as it bakes. The excess dough will be removed after the quiche is baked.) Carefully check for any cracks or holes in the dough, and patch with the reserved dough as necessary. Place in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 20 minutes to resolidify the butter. Reserve the remaining dough scraps.
Put a rack set in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 deg.F.
Line the quiche shell with a 16-inch round of parchment. Fill the shell with pie weights or dried beans, gently guiding the weights into the corners of the shell and filling the shell completely.
Bake the shell for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the edges of the dough are lightly browned but the bottom is still light in color.
Carefully remove the parchment and weights. Check the dough for any new cracks or holes and patch with the thin pieces of the reserved dough if necessary. Return the shell to the oven for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the bottom is a rich golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow the shell to cool completely on the baking sheet. Once again, check the dough for any cracks or holes, and patch if necessary before filling with the quiche batter.
Basic Quiche Batter
Makes enough for one 9-inch quiche: 8 servings
Using a blender aerates the batter and makes a very light quiche. The directions here are for a standard-size blender. However, the ingredients can be combined in one batch if you use an immersion blender or a large-capacity professional blender. Be sure to reblend the batter for a few seconds before pouring each layer of the quiche.
There may be a little excess batter, depending on how much air is incorporated into the batter as it is blended. The quiche may sink slightly as it bakes, so check it after about twenty minutes and, if there is room, you can add a bit more of the batter to the top. Any remaining batter can be baked in custard cups.
The quiche needs to be thoroughly chilled before it's cut, so make your quiche at least a day, or up to three days, before serving it.
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
6 large eggs
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
6 gratings fresh nutmeg
Combine the milk and cream in a large saucepan and heat over medium heat until scalded (meaning a skin begins to form on the surface). Remove from the heat and let cool for 15 minutes before continuing.
Put 3 eggs, half the milk and cream mixture, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, 1/8 teaspoon white pepper, and 3 gratings of nutmeg in a blender and blend in low speed for a few seconds to combine the ingredients. Increase the speed to high and blend for 30 seconds to minute, or until the batter is light and foamy.
This is the first layer of the quiche. Once you have assembled it, add the remaining ingredients to the blender and repeat the process to complete the quiche.
Onion Confit
Makes 2 3/4 cups
Onion confit is simply onions cooked very slowly in a little water and butter to bring out all the onions' sweetness without coloring them. It can be used in all kinds of dishes--from fish to potatoes and green vegetables to quiche.
About 2 1/2 pounds (2 to 3 large) Spanish onions
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
Bouquet Garni
Cut off the tops and bottoms of the onions and cut the onions lengthwise in half. Remove the peel and outer layers. Cut a V wedge in the bottom of each half to remove the core and pull out any solid flat pieces from the center.
Lay and onion half cut side down on a cutting board with the root end toward you. There are lines on the outside of the onion; cut along these lines (the grain) rather than against them to help the onions soften more quickly. Holding the knife almost parallel to the board, slice the onion lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, following the lines of the onion. Once you cut past the center of the onion, the knife angle will become awkward: Flip the onion onto its side (toward the knife), return the knife to the original position, and finish cutting the onion. Separate the slices of onion, trimming away any root sections that are still attached. Repeat with the remaining onions. (You should have about 8 cups of onions.)
Warm 1/4 cup of water in a large pot over low heat. Add the butter and whisky gently to melt. Add the onions, salt, and bouquet garni, stir to combine, and place a parchment lid on top, pressing it against the onions. Cook very slowly, stirring the onions every 20 to 30 minutes at first, more often toward the end of cooking, for about 2 hours. The onions will wilt and steam will rise, but they should not brown.
Check the onions after about 30 minutes: If they seem lost in the pot, transfer to a smaller pot and cut down the parchment lid to fit. If there is a lot of liquid remaining at this point, you can turn up the heat slightly to cook a bit more rapidly.
After about 2 hours, the onions will have softened but should not be falling apart; there still may be liquid left in the pot. Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Let the onions cool in their liquid.
Transfer the onions, with their liquid, to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to a week. Drain the confit before using.
Bouquet Garni
Makes 1
For out standard bouquet garni, we use leek greens as a wrapper to hold the herbs and spices. We use a bouquet garni for seasoning when the broth or other liquid will be strained. When the liquid will not be strained, we wrap the ingredients in cheesecloth instead, making a sachet that keeps the spices from falling into the liquid and can easily be removed at the end of cooking.
2 or 3 pieces dark green out leek leaves (6 to 7 inches long), washed
8 thyme sprigs
2 Italian parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
To make a bouquet garni: Lay out 1 leek green. Place the herbs and peppercorns on top and wrap in the remaining leaf or leaves to forma circular bundle; tie securely with kitchen twine in at least three spots.
Vanilla Macarons (base for Raspberry Macaron recipe)
Makes 14 macarons
Macarons
1 3/4 cups + 2 1/2 tablespoons (212 grams) almond flour/meal
1 3/4 cups + 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons powdered sugar
1/4 cup + 1 1/2 tablespoons egg whites
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (90 grams) egg whites
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1 cup + 3 tablespoons (236 grams) granulated sugar, plus a pinch for the egg whites
2/3 cup (158 grams) water
Vanilla Buttercream Filling
1 cup + 2 tablespoons French Buttercream
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
You'll need a Thermapen or other candy thermometer, a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch plain tip, and a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch plain tip. Baking in a convection oven is preferable; the tops of macarons baked in a standard oven often develop small speckles, which can affect the texture (though not the flavor).
For the macarons: Because the cookies will be sandwiched, it is important that they be as close in size as possible. Even if you are proficient with a pastry bag, we suggest making a template, as we do. Use a compass or a cookie cutter as a guide and a dark marking pen, such as a fine-tip Sharpie.
Lay a sheet of parchment paper on the work surface with a long side closest to you. Trace 4 evenly spaced 2 1/4-inch circles along the top long edge, leaving 1 inch of space around them. Trace 3 circles below them, spacing them between the first circles. Continue with another row of 4, followed by another row of 3. Turn the parchment over and lay it on a sheet pan. Lift up each corner of the parchment and spray the underside with nonstick spray to keep it from blowing up while the cookies are baking. Repeat with a second sheet pan and piece of parchment paper.
Preheat the oven to 350 deg.F (convection) or 400 deg.F (standard).
Place the almond flour in a food processor and pulse to grind it as fine as possible.
Sift the almond flour and powdered sugar into a large bowl and whisk together. Mound the almond flour mixture, then make a 4-inch well in the center, leaving a layer of the flour at the bottom. Pour in the 82 grams/ 1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons egg whites and combine with a spatula. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the mixture, stirring until evenly distributed. Set aside.
Place the remaining 90 grams/ 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Combine the 236 grams/1 cup plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar and the water in a small saucepan and heat over medium-high heat until the syrup reaches 203 deg.F/110 deg.C.
Letting the syrup continue to cook, add the pinch of sugar to the egg whites, turn the mixer to medium speed, and whip to soft peaks. If the whites reach soft peaks before the syrup reaches 248 deg.F/120 deg.C, reduce the speed to the lowest setting, just to keep them moving.
When the syrup reaches 248 deg.F/120 deg.C, remove the pan from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium-low speed, and slowly add the syrup, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk; the meringue will deflate. Increase the speed to medium and whip for 5 minutes, or until the whites hold stiff, glossy peaks. Although the bowl will still be warm to the touch, the meringue should have cooled; if not, continue to whip until it is cool.
Fold one-third of the meringue into the almond mixture, then continue adding the whites a little at a time (you may not use them all) until when you fold a portion of the batter over on itself, the "ribbon" slowly moves. The mixture shouldn't be so stiff that it holds its shape without moving at all, but it shouldn't be so loose that it dissolves into itself and does not maintain the ribbon; it is better for the mixture to be slightly stiff than too loose.
Transfer the mixture to the pastry bag with the H-inch tip. Hold the bag upright H inch above the center of one of the traced circles and pipe out enough of the mixture to fill in the circle. Lift away the pastry bag and fill the remaining circles on the first pan. Lift up the sheet pan and tap the bottom of the pan to spread the batter evenly and smooth any peaks left by the pastry bag.
If using a convection oven, bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the tops are shiny and crisp. If using a standard oven, place the sheet pan in the oven, immediately lower the oven temperature to 325 deg.F, and bake for 9 to 12 minutes, until the tops are shiny and crisp. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely. If using a standard oven, preheat it to 350 deg.F again.
Pipe the remaining meringue mixture into the circles on the second sheet pan and bake as directed above. Let cool completely.
For the Filling: Place the buttercream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on medium-low speed until smooth and fluffy. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the buttercream, and mix on low for about 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly.
To fill the cookies: Transfer the buttercream to the pastry bag with the 3/8-inch tip.
Remove the macarons from the parchment paper. Turn half of them over. Starting in the center, pipe 15 grams/1 tablespoon of the buttercream in a spiral pattern on one upside-down macaron, not quite reaching the edges. Top with a second macaron and press gently to spread the buttercream to the edges. Repeat with the remaining macarons and filling.
The macarons are best if wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap and frozen for at least 24 hours or up to 2 weeks. Defrost in the refrigerator for 3 hours, then bring to room temperature before serving. They can be served the day they are made or stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Raspberry Macarons
For this recipe, we use Chefmaster Liqua-Gel Rose Pink food coloring.
For the macarons, omit the vanilla bean and fold 3 or 4 drops pink food coloring into the finished meringue mixture. For the filling, substitute 200 grams/1 1/3 cups Basic Buttercream for the French Buttercream and omit the vanilla bean. Beat the buttercream as directed, then add 50 grams/2 tablespoons Raspberry Jam and mix for 1 minute, or until evenly combined. If adding a jam center (see Note), use 80 grams/3 1/2 tablespoons additional Raspberry Jam.
Note: At the bakery, we sometimes fill the macarons with "bull's-eyes" (see following page). Pipe buttercream around the edge of each bottom macaron and then place a small amount of curd or jam in the center of each.
Be creative with buttercream and flavor centers. For example, we like to make a peanut butter and jelly macaron. Peanut butter buttercream is piped around the edge and the center is filled with jam.
We color the shells with a combination of Chefmaster Buckeye Brown, Violet, and Red-Red.
Basic Buttercream
Makes 3 cups (450 grams)
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon egg whites
3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons + 2 1/4 teaspoons (33 grams)
3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon (42 grams) water
8 ounces (227 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, at room temperature
Buttercream is one of the most important basics in the pastry kitchen. It's not essential that you use a high-fat butter, just the best quality butter you have access to.
Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.
Place the 150 grams/ 3/4 cup sugar in a small saucepan, add the water, and stir to moisten the sugar.
Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, and simmer until the syrup reaches 230 deg./100deg.C.
Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed, gradually pour in the remaining 33 grams/2 tablespoons plus 2 1/4 teaspoons sugar into the whites, and whip until the whites are beginning to form very loose peaks. If the whites are ready before the syrup reaches 248 deg.F/120 deg.C, turn the mixer to the lowest setting just to keep them moving.
When the syrup reaches 248 deg.F/120 deg.C, remove the pan from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium-low speed and slowly add the syrup to the whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Increase the speed to medium-high and whisk for 15 minutes, or until the bottom of the bowl is at room temperature and the whites hold stiff peaks. (If the mixture is warm, it will melt the butter.)
Raspberry or Cherry Jam
Makes 1 1/4 cups (460 grams)
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon (62 grams) granulated sugar
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon (62 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon (10 grams) apple pectin
17.6 ounces (500 grams) Raspberry or cherry puree
Raspberry is the pastry chef's go-to fruit. It has a perfect sweet-tart balance that works well in countless desserts. Raspberry jam can be spread on cookies or on croissants or used to add an extra dimension to a tart. And it's very easy to make: simply bring all the ingredients to a simmer long enough for the pectin--the gelling agent--to activate, and you're done. You can also make a cherry version.
For this recipe, we use Boiron or Perfect Puree fruit puree.
Line a sheet pan with a Silpat. Combine 62 grams/ 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar and the pectin in a small bowl.
Combine the fruit puree with the remaining 62 grams/ 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoons sugar in a nonreactive pot, preferably lined copper, and stir over medium-high heat until it comes to a rolling boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the top. Stir in the pectin mixture and continue to stir as it comes to a boil. Boil, stirring for 3 minutes to activate the pectin. Pour the jam onto the prepared pan and let cool to room temperature.
Transfer the jam to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
For more recipes, go to Page 2.
Lemon Meringue Tarts
Serves 6
1/2 recipe P»te Sucrée
Egg whites
Granulated sugar
Madeleine Cake for Lemon Meringue Tarts, frozen
Small batch of Lemon Curd
I love individual desserts, whether they are cupcakes or cookies or these little lemon tarts, because I love having my very own. This dessert is all about contrasts in tastes and texture: the tartness of the creamy filling, the sweetness of the meringue, the crunch of the crust, and the surprise element of a layer of cake. Besides adding another textural element, the cake absorbs any moisture the meringue might release and prevents the meringue from sliding. You can use as much or as little meringue as you wish here, high
or low.
You'll need a Thermapen or other candy thermometer, six 3-by-»-inch tart rings, a pastry bag with a 1-inch plain tip, a 2 3/4-inch round cutter,
a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch plain tip, and a propane torch.
For the tart shell: Preheat the oven to 325 deg.F (standard). Line a sheet pan with a Silpat or parchment paper.
Following the instructions on page 130, roll out the dough, line the tart rings, and fill with rice. Bake for 8 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for another 8 minutes, or until the dough is set and no longer sticks to the parchment paper. Remove the parchment and rice (store the rice for future use), return the pan to the oven, and bake for another 12 minutes, or until the dough is cooked through and golden brown. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely. Run the tip of a paring knife between the top of the crust and the ring to loosen the crust, then lift off the ring.
Meanwhile, make a Swiss meringue: Place the egg whites and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer and set over a saucepan of simmering water. Whisk until the mixture reaches 160 deg.F/71.1 deg.C, then immediately put the bowl on the mixer, attach the whisk attachment, and whip at medium-high speed for about 5 minutes, until the whites hold stiff peaks and are cool. Transfer to the pastry bag fitted with the 1-inch tip.
Use the round cutter to cut the frozen madeleine layer into 6 rounds.
Fill the pastry bag fitted with the H-inch plain tip with the lemon curd.
Fill the tart shells with curd to G inch from the rim of the shells (50 grams/G cup each). Place the cake rounds on top. Hold the pastry bag vertically over the center of each cake, about H inch from the surface, and pipe the meringue to cover about two-thirds of the surface (20 grams each), then pull the bag up to form a dome with as much additional meringue as you'd like. Hold a small offset spatula at the tip of the domed meringue and pull it to the edges of the crust, forming a smooth line from the tip to the outside of the shell. Wipe off the spatula and continue around the tart to form a cone shape, then use the spatula to form irregular peaks in the meringue. Using the propane torch, brown the top of the meringue.
The tarts are best the same day they are assembled. They can be refrigerated for 4 to 6 hours; remove them from the refrigerator 20 minutes before serving.
P»te Sucrée
Makes 1 3/4 pounds (800 grams)
2 2/3 cups (375 grams) All-purpose flour
1/4 cup + 2 » tablespoons (46 grams) Powdered sugar
3/4 cup + 1 tablespoon (94 grams) Powdered sugar
1/4 cup + 3 tablespoons (47 grams) Almond flour/meal
8 ounces (225 grams) Unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
3 1/2 tablespoons (56 grams) Eggs
A traditional p»te sucrée is a basic sweet dough. But Sebastien is relentless in his pursuit of more flavor and a more refined technique, so he uses powdered sugar rather than granulated or superfine, because it blends into the butter better. He adds most of the sugar to the butter, which has been whipped to peaks, then adds the rest of the sugar with the flour; he uses not only wheat flour but also almond flour, for its rich flavor. For even more flavor, he adds the seeds of a vanilla bean and, for richness and its binding properties, some egg. The result is a wonderful sweet, delicate dough, which he likes to use with less-sweet fillings as in the Lemon Meringue Tarts. He uses p»te brisée with most very sweet fillings.
Place the all-purpose flour in a medium bowl. Sift the 46 grams/G cup plus 2H tablespoons powdered sugar and the almond flour into the bowl; break up any lumps of almond flour remaining in the sieve, add them to the bowl, and whisk to combine.
Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and cream on medium-low speed, warming the bowl as needed, until the butter is the consistency of mayonnaise and holds a peak when the paddle is lifted. Sift in the remaining 94 grams/I cup plus 1 tablespoon powdered sugar and pulse to begin incorporating the sugar, then increase the speed to medium-low and mix for about 1 minute, until the mixture is fluffy. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the butter mixture, and mix on low speed for about 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly.
Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing for 15 to 30 seconds after each, or until just combined. Scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that have settled there. Add the eggs and mix on low speed until just combined, 15 to 30 seconds.
Transfer the dough to the work surface. Use the heel of your hand to smear the dough and work it together (fraiser). Divide the dough in half and form each half into a 4-by-6-inch-rectangle, about I inch thick.
Wrap each piece in a double layer of plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours, but preferably overnight. The dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month.
Madeleine Cake for Lemon Meringue Tarts
Using the following proportions, spread the batter in a thin layer and bake for 10 to 12 minutes; the layer should not take on any color. Let cool, then place the pan in the freezer until ready to use.
» cup + 1 » tablespoons (47 grams) All-purpose flour
3/8 teaspoon (1.5 grams) Baking powder
3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon (50 grams) Eggs
3 tablespoons + 2 » teaspoons (45 grams) Granulated sugar
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon (28 grams) Glucose
0.6 ounce (19 grams) Unsalted butter
2 teaspoons (9 grams) Whole milk
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon (19 grams) Fresh lemon juice
Lemon or Lime Curd
Small Batch: Makes generous 1 3/4 cups (400 grams)
3/4 sheet (1.8 grams) Silver leaf gelatin
1/4 cup + 3 tablespoons (108 grams) Eggs
1/2 cup + 2 teaspoons (108 grams) Granulated sugar
1/4 cup + 3 tablespoons (108 grams) Strained fresh lemon or lime juice
5 ounces (140 grams) Unsalted butter, cut into »-inch pieces, at room temperature
Grated zest of 1/2 small lemon or 1/2 lime (optional)
Large Batch: Makes 3 1/2 cups (800 grams)
1 1/2 sheets (3.6 grams) Silver leaf gelatin
3/4 cup + 1 1/2 tablespoons (216 grams) Eggs
1 cup + 1 1/2 tablespoons (216 grams) Granulated sugar
3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (216 grams) Strained fresh lemon or lime juice
9.9 ounces (280 grams) Unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, at room temperature
Grated zest of 1/2 lemon or 1 lime (optional)
Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.
Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and sugar together in a medium saucepan. Slowly whisk in the lemon or lime juice. Place the pan over medium heat and whisk slowly, until the mixture begins to simmer. Simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, whisking constantly, until thickened. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk gently for 1 to 2 minutes to release steam and cool the curd slightly.
Remove the gelatin from the water, squeezing out the excess water, and whisk it into the hot curd. Strain the curd through a fine-mesh strainer set over the container of a Vitamix and blend on low speed for a few seconds, then add the butter 2 or 3 pieces at a time, blending until incorporated. Add the zest, if using, and blend to incorporate. Let the curd cool to room temperature.
The curd can be used at this point or transferred to a covered container. Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming and refrigerate for up to 4 days.
If the curd has been refrigerated and has stiffened, transfer it to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix slowly until it reaches a creamy consistency.
Pecan Sandies for My Mom
Makes 1 1/2 Dozen Cookies
My mom, Betty Keller, was a creature of habit. She worked very hard at her job managing restaurants while raising five boys and a daughter as a single mother. She loved to have cookies on hand at the end of the day, and she especially loved the Keebler pecan sandie. It was part of my childhood, and it's a flavor combination, vanilla and pecan, that I associate with her. It was an adult cookie to me. There was always a bag of them in the cupboard.
Or almost always. We were six kids, and we were voracious. That was a problem when it came to my mother's cookies. We had our own cookies, Oreos and Nutter Butters, but when we'd dispatched those, there would be that bag of Mom's pecan sandies, daring us. It was really hard. Those cookies were sacrosanct, but sometimes, guiltily, we ate her cookies, one by one, until they were gone.
Mom had very few things she could call her own. She had no real luxuries. We didn't have winter family vacations; we didn't go to a cabin by a lake in the summer. She worked, and she gave us everything we wanted and needed. But we didn't appreciate it then. How could we know? How could I, youngest of the boys, know?
But I do now. Day after day, year after year, Mom set an extraordinary example for me. An example of hard work, attention to detail, and an all-consuming love for our family that I still have today.
Food is a powerful connecter of who we are to who we were, to our past, to our memories, and, for me, to a different and simpler time. Even the smallest thing--a cookie--can help us understand what we feel now while reminding us of what we once felt and who we've become versus who we were then. So much of who I am today is tied to who my mom was, the choices she made, the way she worked, and how she lived her life. What success I have today, I owe to her.
All of which is why the pecan sandie is so important to me.
1 3/4 cups + 1 1/2 teaspoons All-purpose flour (250 grams)
3/4 cup Coarsely chopped pecans (80 grams)
4 ounces Unsalted butter, at room temperature (170 grams)
3/4 cup + 1 3/4 teaspoons Powdered sugar (90 grams)
Additional powdered sugar for dusting (optional)
Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 325 deg.F (convection) or 350 deg.F (standard). Line two sheet pans with Silpats or parchment paper.
Toss the flour and pecans together in a medium bowl.
Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on medium-low speed until smooth. Add the 90 grams/ 3/4 cup plus 1 3/4 teaspoons powdered sugar and mix for about 2 minutes, until fluffy. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. Add the flour mixture and mix on low speed for about 30 seconds, until just combined. Scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that have settled there.
Divide the dough into 30-gram/1 1/2-tablespoon portions, roll into balls, and arrange on the sheet pans, leaving about 1 1/2 inches between them. Press the cookies into 2-inch disks.
Bake until pale golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes if using a convection oven, 22 to 25 minutes if using a standard oven, reversing the positions of the pans halfway through. (Sandies baked in a convection oven will not spread as much as those baked in a standard oven and will have a more even color.)
Set the pans on a cooling rack and cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Using a metal spatula, transfer the cookies to the rack to cool completely.
If desired, dust with powdered sugar.
The cookies can be stored in a covered container for up to 3 days.
Oh Ohs
Makes 8 individual cakes
1 1/2 cups (150 grams) Chocolate Biscuit
14 ounces (400 grams) Sweetened Whipped Cream
2 tablespoons (18 grams) Brune p»te » glacer
* P»te » glacer, sometimes referred to as compound chocolate, is used for coating. It can be used on fruits or in ice cream bars or cones, or to decorate cookies or desserts. P»te » glacer is available in three different flavors--brune (dark), blonde (milk), and ivoire (white)--and it doesn't require tempering.
2 tablespoons (18 grams) Crunchy dark chocolate pearls (optional)
2 tablespoons (18 grams) Crunchy white chocolate pearls (optional)
I have to confess that I've loved Hostess Ho Hos since they were introduced in 1967, when I was twelve. People love our version of them. Adults get more excited than the kids--I suspect because these make them feel like kids again.
We coat ours in p»te » glacer, a chocolate coating that doesn't need to be tempered. The pearls add chocolaty crunch.
For this recipe, we use Cacao Barry p»te » glacer, Valrhona Les Perles 55%, and Cacao Barry white Crispearls.
Place a piece of parchment paper the size of the sheet pan on a cutting board and set the chocolate biscuit on the paper. Trim the edges to straighten them. Turn the biscuit so that a short end is facing you. Spread the whipped cream in a thin, even layer over the cake, leaving a G-inch border all around. Using the parchment paper to help you, lift the short end nearest you and fold about H inch of the cake over, just enough to begin rolling it, then continue to lift up the paper to roll the cake into as tight a roll as possible, stopping when you reach the center of the cake. Repeat, rolling from the opposite side, until the rolls meet in the center.
Cut the rolls apart. Cut two 12-by-8-inch pieces of parchment paper. Place a roll lengthwise along the edge of a paper and roll it up in the paper, pulling back on the roll from time to time to tighten it, using your hands, a paint shield, or a straightedge. Tape the paper in the center and at the ends, and repeat with the remaining roll. Freeze the rolls overnight.
To enrobe the rolls: Trim the ends off the rolls, then cut each one into 4 pieces. You want to dip them while they are still frozen.
Lay a Silpat on the work surface. Heat the p»te » glacer until it is hot, then strain through a fine strainer into a small, deep bowl just large enough to hold an Oh Oh. Dip one piece at a time into the hot chocolate (preferably wearing latex gloves), making sure to cover the sides as well, then remove, letting the excess chocolate drip back into the bowl, and place on the Silpat. Let the glaze begin to set, then garnish each roll with several pearls, if using. Should any chocolate pool and harden around the base of the Oh Ohs, it can be trimmed away with a hot paring knife. Transfer to the refrigerator.
The Oh Ohs can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in a covered container.
Chocolate Biscuit
Makes 1 sheet cake
3 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons (33 grams) all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons (25 grams) almond flour/meal
3 tablespoons + 1/2 teaspoon (16 grams) unsweetened alkalized cocoa powder
1/2 cup (123 grams) eggs
3 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons (58 grams) egg yolks
1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon (111 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon + 2 1/2 teaspoons (23 grams) granulated sugar
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon (74 grams) egg whites
A biscuit, like a génoise, is a French sponge cake, but unlike the génoise, where whole eggs are used, the yolks and whites are separated and the whites beaten before they are folded into the batter. This very thin cake, baked in a sheet pan, is flexible enough to be rolled up for our take on the Ho Ho (see Oh Ohs) and for other desserts. To make it especially pliable, we use less flour and more fat and chocolate than in a traditional chocolate biscuit. It's important not to overbake this, or it will dry out and then crack when you roll it. If you can, store the egg whites in the refrigerator for a few days before using them; the cake will have a better structure.
For this recipe, we use Guittard Cocoa Rouge.
Preheat the oven to 350 deg.F (standard). Line a sheet pan with a Silpat or spray the pan lightly with nonstick spray, line with parchment paper, and spray the parchment.
Place the all-purpose flour in a large bowl. Sift in the almond flour; break up any lumps remaining in the sieve and add them to the bowl. Sift in the cocoa powder and whisk to combine.
Place the eggs, yolks, and the 111 grams/H cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on medium-low speed for about 1 minute to combine. Increase the speed to medium and whip for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then whip on medium-high speed for another 5 minutes, or until the mixture has thickened. When the whisk is lifted, the mixture should form a slowly dissolving ribbon. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand.
Whip the whites in a clean mixer bowl with the clean whisk attachment on medium speed for about 45 seconds, until foamy. Lower the speed and slowly add the remaining 23 grams/1 tablespoon plus 2 1/2 teaspoons sugar, then increase the speed to medium-high and whip for 2 to 2 1/2 minutes, until the whites are glossy with soft peaks.
Fold the dry ingredients into the yolk mixture in 2 additions, then do the same with the egg whites. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and, using an offset spatula, spread it in an even layer, making sure that it reaches into the corners. Bake for about 15 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean and the cake springs back when you touch it lightly. Set on a cooling rack and cool completely.
Lay a piece of parchment paper on the back of a sheet pan. Run a knife around the edges to loosen the cake and invert it onto the parchment. Remove the Silpat or parchment from the top of the cake.
Wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, the biscuit can be kept at room temperature for up to 4 hours, refrigerated for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 2 weeks.
If you will be cutting the cake into shapes, the cake should be frozen before cutting. If frozen, and not being cut into shapes, the cake should be defrosted in the refrigerator still in the plastic wrap (this way, any condensation will form on the outside and not on the cake).
Sweetened Whipped Cream
Small Batch: Makes 150 grams/1 1/2 cups
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons (150 grams) heavy cream
2 1/4 teaspoons (5 grams) powdered sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Medium Batch : Makes 300 grams/3 cups
1 1/4 cups + 2 tablespoons (450 grams) heavy cream
1 1/2 tablespoons (10 grams) powdered sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Large Batch: Makes 450 grams/4 1?2 cups
1 3/4 cups + 2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons + » teaspoon powdered sugar
1 1/2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise
We like to use a high-fat cream (40%) for our whipped cream; do use it if it's available to you. Sebastien uses powdered sugar because it dissolves more easily than granulated sugar. It's best to whip the cream just before you need it; although you can whip it in advance, it tends to break down in the refrigerator. But taking cream from liquid to soft, silken peaks is a matter of less than a minute.
Place the cream and powdered sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the cream. Whisk at medium speed until the cream holds a shape when you lift it on the whisk and, if you will be piping it, is just stiff enough to be piped through a pastry bag; do not overwhip. It is best to spread or pipe the cream immediately after whipping.