Thanksgiving on a Shoestring

You could certainly call cooking teacher and cookbook author Rick Rodgers "Mr. Thanksgiving." Not only did he literally write the book ("Thanksgiving 101"), but he's an eagerly sought-after expert this time of year on how to create a memorable meal that looks like it leapt from the pages of a magazine right onto your table.

To up the ante, Rodgers has taken the "Chef on a Shoestring" challenge - to create a Thanksgiving feast for eight people for only $80. If you take a look at his menu, you'll see that it's full of mouth-watering dishes to accompany his picture-perfect roast turkey: scalloped yams with a praline topping; broccoli smothered in garlic butter; a dressing with sausage and apple and a cranberry, ginger and lemon chutney, all of which will have your guests begging for leftovers.

To top it off: an unusual pumpkin walnut roulade served with a spiked whipped cream.

... And then comes the nap.

Rodgers has authored more than 30 cookbooks on different topics and you'll see his byline in all the major food magazines. He's also made numerous television appearances. And yes, he will be hosting Thanksgiving on Thursday.

Here are some helpful notes from the chef:

Turkey Broth: Rick pours homemade turkey broth into his roasting pan for basting; this provides a delicious base for gravy, once the turkey finishes cooking. He makes his turkey broth by browning turkey wings and then cooking them with aromatics and water - the recipe is below.

Yams: Grocery stores and many recipes tend to use the words "yam" and "sweet potato" interchangeably; the true definitions of both of these root vegetables is complicated, and shoppers should just know that as long as the vegetable they buy is bright orange in the center, they'll be fine. When many people think about sweet potatoes at Thanksgiving, they think about the sweet, marshmallow-topped variety. Rick's version (recipe below) is still sinfully rich and a bit sweet, but not cloyingly so.

Cranberry Chutney: This unusual and flavorful condiment is worth a try, even if you adore the canned variety - which Rick suggests you serve as well, for the traditionalists.

Pumpkin Walnut Roulade: This is a pumpkin cake rolled up with spiked whipped cream and topped with nuts. Rick feels that if you're not a great pie baker, you should simply buy a pumpkin pie - or skip the pie altogether and make this cake instead!

Winter Squash Soup With Prosciutto And Sage
(Makes 8 servings)

Make Ahead: The soup can be made up to 2 days ahead.

Says Rodgers: "This bright orange soup seems rich and creamy without a drop of cream in sight. You have many choices, from sugar or cheese pumpkin to butternut, Hubbard, or calabaza squash. Because each squash has a different moisture content, you may find that you need to adjust the consistency of the finished soup. If it is too thick, just thin it with more broth; if it is too thin, dissolve 2 tablespoons cornstarch in 1/3 cup cold water. Bring to soup to a boil, and stir in enough of the cornstarch mixture to thicken to your taste. (Remember, though, that the soup must be boiling for the cornstarch thickening to work.)"

2 pounds winter squash (see above)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, chopped
1 medium celery rib, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use reduced-sodium canned chicken broth
3 ounces (1/4-inch thick) prosciutto, chopped (about 1/2 cup; see Note)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried sage
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1. Using a large, sharp knife, cut the squash into large pieces. Using a large spoon, scrape away and discard any fibers and seeds. Cut the squash into 1-inch pieces. Using a small, sharp paring knife, pare away the thick skin. Set the squash aside.

2. In a Dutch oven or soup pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, cover, and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the squash and the stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until the squash is tender when pierced with the tip of knife, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. In batches, transfer the soup to a blender and puree, being sure to leave the lid slightly ajar so the steam can escape. Return the pureed soup to the Dutch oven and add the prosciutto and sage. Cook over low heat for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Season with the salt and pepper. (The soup can be prepared up to 2 days head, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. The soup will thicken when chilled. Reheat over medium-low heat, stirring often and thinning the soup as needed with additional chicken stock, until hot, about 10 minutes.)

4. Transfer the soup to a warmed soup tureen. Ladle into warmed soup bowls and serve immediately.

Note: When you order prosciutto from the delicatessen counter, be sure to ask for it sliced about 1/4-inch thick, not paper thin. Any leftover prosciutto can be double-wrapped in aluminum foil and frozen for up to 2 months.

Perfect Roast Turkey With Old-Fashioned Gravy
(Makes about 18 servings with about 7 cups gravy)

Make-Ahead: Roast the turkey just before serving.

Says Rodgers: "After trying every turkey roasting method under the sun, this is the one I come back to, and the one I always teach at my cooking classes. I am giving instructions for an average-sized 18-pound turkey, but the instructions can expand or reduce depending on the size of your bird."

One (18-pound) fresh turkey
About 12 cups of your favorite stuffing (or 1 each chopped onion, carrot, and celery, mixed with 1/4 cup chopped parsley and Homemade Poultry Seasoning, recipe follows)
2 1/2 quarts Homemade Turkey Broth (see recipe), as needed
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more if needed
Salt
Freshly milled black pepper
3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1. Position a rack in the lowest position of the oven and preheat to 325 degrees F. Reserve the turkey neck and giblets to use in gravy or stock. Rinse the turkey inside and out with cold water. Pat the turkey skin dry. Turn the turkey on its breast. Loosely fill the neck cavity with stuffing. Using a thin wooden or metal skewer, pin the turkey's neck skin to the back. Fold the turkey's wings akimbo behind the back or tie to the body with kitchen string. Loosely fill the large body cavity with stuffing. Place any remaining stuffing in a lightly buttered casserole, cover and refrigerate to bake as a side dish. Place the drumsticks in the hock lock or tie together with kitchen string.

2. Place the turkey, breast side up, on a rack in the roasting pan. Rub all over with the softened butter. Season with the salt and pepper. Tightly cover the breast area with aluminum foil. Pour 2 cups of turkey stock into the bottom of the pan.

3. Roast the turkey until a meat thermometer inserted in the meaty part of the thigh (but not touching a bone) reads 180 degrees F degrees and the stuffing is at least 160 degrees F, about 4 1/4 hours. (See Estimated Roasting Times, below.) Don't baste too often -- every 45 minutes is enough, and if you forget, that's fine too, as basting only glazes the skin and doesn't affect moisture. If you baste, lift up the foil and replace it to baste the breast area. Whenever the drippings evaporate, add broth to moisten them (about 1 1/2 cups at a time). Remove the foil during the last hour to allow the skin to brown.

4. Transfer the turkey to a large serving platter and let it stand for at least 20 minutes before carving. Increase the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Drizzle 1/2 cup of turkey broth over the stuffing in the casserole, cover, and bake until heated through, about 30 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, pour the drippings from the roasting pan into a heatproof glass bowl or measuring cup. Let stand 5 minutes; then skim off and reserve the clear yellow fat that rises to the top. Measure 3/4 cup fat, adding melted butter, if needed. Add enough turkey broth to the skimmed drippings to make 8 cups total.

6. Place the roasting pan over two stove burners on low heat and add the turkey fat. Sprinkle with the flour and whisk, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan, and cook until the flour is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the turkey broth,. Cook, whisking often, until the gravy thickens and no trace of raw flour flavor remains, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Strain, if desired. Transfer the gravy to a warmed gravy boat. Carve the turkey and serve the gravy alongside.

Homemade Poultry Seasoning: Mix 1 teaspoon each dried rosemary, dried crumbled sage, dried marjoram, dried thyme, and celery salt, 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and 1 well-crumbled bay leaf. Crush together in a mortar and pestle or in a mini-food processor.

Estimated Roasting Times
(Oven Temperature 325 degrees F)

Add an extra 30 minutes to the roasting time to allow for variations in roasting conditions. It's better to have a bird done ahead of time than to keep everyone waiting and hungry for the bird to finish roasting.

Unstuffed Turkey
8 to 12 pounds 2 3/4 to 3 hours
12 to 14 pounds 3 to 3 3/4 hours
14 to 18 pounds 3 3/4 to 4 1/4 hours
18 to 20 pounds 4 1/4 to 4/12 hours
20 to 24 pounds 4 1/2 to 5 hours

Stuffed Turkey
8 to 12 pounds 3 to 3 1/2 hours
12 to 14 pounds 3 1/2 to 4 hours
14 to 18 pounds 4 to 4 1/4 hours
18 to 20 pounds 4 1/4 to 4 3/4 hours
20 to 24 pounds 4 3/4 to 5 1/4 hours

Homemade Turkey Stock
(Makes about 2 1/2 quarts)

Make-Ahead: Turkey stock can be prepared up to 3 days ahead, cooled completely, covered and refrigerated. It can also be frozen in airtight containers for up to 3 months.

3 pounds turkey wings
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, chopped
1 medium celery rib, with leaves, chopped
6 parsley sprigs
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 dried bay leaf

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees F.

2. Using a heavy cleaver, chop the wings into 2-inch pieces. Spread in a heavy roasting pan. Bake until the wings are deeply browned, 45 to 60 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the the onion, carrot, and celery to the pot and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 minutes.

4. Add the turkey wings to the pot. Pour out the turkey fat from the roasting pan (save it, if you want, for rubbing the turkey instead of butter for roasting, which is what I do.) Place the roasting pan over high heat and heat until it sizzles. Add 2 cups water and cook, scraping up the browned bits in the pan with a wooden spatula. Pour into the pot. Add enough cold water to cover the wings by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off the foam that rises to the surface. Add the parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Reduce the heat to low. Cook at a light simmer for about 3 hours.

4. Strain the stock through a colander into a large bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes and skim off the clear yellow fat that rises to the surface. (Or cool completely and refrigerate, then lift off the solidified fat from the surface -- save it for your turkey!)

Small-Batch Turkey Stock: A smaller amount of stock can be prepared with just the turkey neck and giblets. As this relatively small amount of turkey won't give a very full-flavored stock, use chicken broth (homemade or canned) as a booster. Following the instructions above, brown the neck and giblets from 1 turkey in 1 tablespoon oil. Add 1 small onion, 1 small carrot, and 1 small celery, all chopped, and cook until softened. Add 1 quart water, 1 3/4 cups (one 13 3/4-ounce can) chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Add 3 parsley sprigs, 1/4 teaspoon thyme, 6 peppercorns, and 1 small bay leaf. Simmer for 2 1/2 to 3 hours (the smaller amount of liquid would evaporate away if cooked longer).

Sausage And Apple Stuffing 101
(Makes about 10 cups stuffing)

1 pound pork or turkey sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 large onion, chopped
3 medium celery ribs with leaves, chopped
One 15-ounce bag cubed seasoned stuffing
5 ounces dried apples, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
2 1/2 cups turkey stock, preferably homemade, or use canned, as needed
2 teaspoons poultry seasoning
Salt
Freshly milled black pepper

1. In a large skillet, cook the sausage over medium heat, bringing up the meat with the side of a spoon. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large bowl.

2. Add the butter to the skillet and melt over medium heat. Add the onion and celery. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is golden, about 10 minutes. Add to the bowl with the sausage.

3. Add the stuffing cubes, dried apples, and parsley. Stir in enough of the broth to moisten the stuffing, about 2 1/2 cups. Season with the poultry seasoning, salt and pepper. Use as a turkey stuffing. Spread any remaining stuffing into a buttered casserole, cover, and refrigerate until ready to bake as a side dish.

Make Ahead Mashed Potato Casserole
(Makes 8 to 12 servings)

Make Ahead: The casserole can be prepared up to 1 day ahead.

Says Rodgers: "I was a mashed potato snob who held tight to the belief that mashed potatoes are only worth eating when they were freshly made, until my friend, caterer/food stylist/restaurateur Katy Keck set me straight. Katy, who is in the habit of cooking Thanksgiving dinner for over two dozen people, would never dream of trying to mash that many potatoes in one batch. She gave me this recipe for a delicious make-ahead mashed potato casserole, with lots of dairy ingredients to keep the spuds moist."

5 pounds baking potatoes (such as russet, Idaho, Burbank, or Eastern)
Salt
8 ounces cream cheese, cut into chunks, at room temperature
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup sour cream, at room temperature
1/2 cup milk, heated
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Chopped chives or parsley, for garnish (optional)

1. Fill a large pot (at least 5 quarts) halfway with cold water. Peel the potatoes and cut into chunks about 1 1/2 inch square, and drop them into the pot. Add more cold water to cover the potatoes by 1 to 2 inches. (The potatoes can be prepared up to this point for 4 hours, stored at cool room temperature.)

2. Stir in enough salt until the water tastes mildly salted. Cover tightly and bring to a full boil over high heat, allowing at least 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and set the lid askew. Cook at a moderate boil until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife, about 20 minutes.

3. Drain the potatoes well and return to the warm pot. Add the cream cheese and butter. Using a hand-held electric mixer, mash the potatoes until the cream cheese and butter melt. Beat in the sour cream and milk. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Transfer to a buttered 9 X 13-inch baking dish. Cool completely. (The potatoes can be prepared up 4 hours ahead, covered loosely with plastic wrap, and stored at cool room temperature, or cool, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 1 day.)

4. Preheat the oven to 375° F. Bake until the potatoes are heated through 30 to 40 minutes. Serve hot, sprinkled with the chives, if using.

For recipes for Scalloped Yams with Praline Topping; Cranberry, Ginger and Lemon Chutney; Broccoli with Garlic Butter and Pumpkin Walnut Roulade with Spiked Cream, go to Page 2

Scalloped Yams With Praline Topping
(Makes 8 to 12 servings)

Make Ahead: The yams can be parboiled and placed in their baking dish up to 8 hours before baking; the praline topping can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead.

Says Rodgers: "This is one of my favorite dishes to demonstrate how yams don't have to be cloying sweet to be good. Whenever I make it, it never fails that someone remarks (or words to this effect), 'I don't even like yams, but I could eat a whole dish of these!'"

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/3 cup (about 2 ounces) finely chopped pecans
6 medium yams, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch thick rounds (about 3 pounds)
1 1/2 cups heavy cream, heated

1. In a small bowl, using your fingers, work the flour, brown sugar, and butter together until well combined, then work in the pecans. Set aside. (The praline topping can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead, stored at room temperature.)

2. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the yams and cook just until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Do not overcook. They should be able to hold their shape when drained. Drain and rinse under cold running water.

3. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Lightly butter a 9 X 13-inch baking dish.

4. Overlapping in vertical rows, place the yams in the prepared dish. (The yams can be parboiled and placed in their baking dish up to 8 hours before baking, covered tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated.)

5. Pour the cream over the yams. Bake for 20 minutes. Crumble the pecan mixture over the yams and continue baking until the yams are tender and the topping is browned, 20 to 30 more minutes. Serve hot.

Cranberry, Ginger And Lemon Chutney
(Makes about 3 cups, 12 servings)

Make Ahead: The chutney can be made up to 2 weeks ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated.

Says Rodgers: "This is my most requested cranberry sauce recipe. As a matter of fact, many friends and students now make quarts of this chutney at Christmas time for gift-giving. Crystallized ginger can be purchased inexpensively at Asian markets. It can also be found at many supermarkets and specialty food stores, where it gets pricey."

1 medium lemon
One 12-ounce bag cranberries
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup diced (1/4-inch) crystallized ginger (about 2 1/2 ounces)
1/3 cup finely chopped onion
1 garlic clove, minced
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
1 cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Using a grater, remove the yellow zest from the lemon. Using a small, sharp paring knife, cut away and discard the thick white pith. Cut the lemon in half horizontally and pick out the seeds with the tip of the knife. Dice the lemon into 1/4-inch pieces.

2. In a medium, nonreactive saucepan, combine the cranberries, diced lemon and zest, sugar, ginger, onion, garlic, jalapeno, cinnamon stick, mustard and salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often to help dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce is thick and the cranberries have burst, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool completely. (The chutney can be prepared up to 2 weeks ahead, covered tightly and refrigerated.) Remove the cinnamon stick just before serving. Serve at room temperature.

Broccoli With Garlic Butter
(Makes 8 to 10 servings)

2 large, plump heads of garlic (about 3 1/2 ounces each)
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 large heads broccoli (3 pounds)

1. To make the roasted garlic butter, position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F.

2. Cut each garlic head in half crosswise. Drizzle the cut surfaces with oil, then season with a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Put the halves back together to re-form into heads. Wrap each head in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet. Bake until the garlic is tender when squeezed and the cut surfaces are deep beige (open up the foil to check), about 35 minutes. Cool completely.

3. Squeeze the soft garlic flesh out the hulls into a small bowl. Add the butter, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Using a rubber spatula, mash the garlic and butter until well combined. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. (The garlic butter can be prepared up to 3 days ahead). Bring to room temperature before using.

4. To prepare the broccoli, cut off the tops and separate into florets. Using a sharp paring knife, trim the thick skin off the stems. Cut the pared stems crosswise into ¼-inch rounds. (The broccoli can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, stored in plastic bags, and refrigerated.)

5. Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the broccoli stems and cook for 2 minutes. Add the florets and cook until the broccoli is crisp-tender, about 2 more minutes. Drain quickly and return to the warm cooking pot. Do not drain the broccoli completely dry-leave some water clinging to the broccoli.

6. Add the softened garlic butter to the broccoli and mix gently, allowing the butter to melt and combine with the small amount of water in the pot to form a light sauce. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl and serve immediately.

Pumpkin-Walnut Roulade With Spiked Cream
(Makes 8 to 10 servings)

Make Ahead: The roulade can be made up to 2 days ahead.

Says Rodgers: "A number of my cooking students report that this spicy pumpkin roll has replaced pumpkin pie at their house. Don't be nervous about rolling up the cake -- it is very flexible, and if for some reason it does crack, the whipped cream garnish with cover any blemishes. Be sure the walnuts are very finely chopped (the best way is to pulse them in a food processor, being careful that they don't turn into walnut butter) so they can be rolled up with the roulade."

Roulade Cake
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature
2/3 cup canned solid pack pumpkin
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
3/4 cup (3 ounces) finely chopped walnuts
Confectioners' sugar, for sifting

Filling
Two 3-ounce packages cream cheese, at room temperature
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger

Spiked Cream
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar
2 teaspoons dark rum or brandy, optional
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tablespoons finely chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger

1. To make the cake, position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees F. Lightly butter a 10 X 15-inch jelly roll pan. To line the bottom and sides of the pan, cut a 12 X 16-inch piece of parchment or waxed paper. At each of the four corners, cut a diagonal slash about 2 inches long. Fit the paper into the pan, folding the cut ends over each other at the slashed to form neat corners. Lightly butter and flour the paper, tapping out the excess flour.

2. Sift the flour, cinnamon, ginger, baking soda, nutmeg, cloves, and salt together. In a large bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer set at high speed, beat the sugar and eggs until the mixture triples in volume and is light in color and texture, about 3 minutes. The mixture should form a thick ribbon that falls back on itself when the beaters are lifted about 2 inches from the bowl. Do not underbeat. Mix in the pumpkin and lemon juice.

3. With the mixer on low, gradually beat in the flour mixture, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan, being sure to reach into the corners. Sprinkle the batter with the walnuts.

4. Bake until the center of the cake springs back when lightly pressed with a finger, about 15 minutes. Sift confectioners' over the top of the cake. Place a clean kitchen towel over the cake, then top with a baking sheet. Holding the baking sheet over the cake, turn the cake upside down and invert it onto the towel on the baking sheet. Carefully peel off the paper, then place it back on the cake. Using the towel as an aide, roll up the cake and cool completely.

5. To make the filling, in a medium bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer at medium speed, beat the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla until combined. Gradually beat in the confectioners' sugar until smooth.

6. Unroll the cake and discard the paper. Spread the filling evenly over the cake and sprinkle with the crystallized ginger. Re-roll the cake (you won't need to use the kitchen towel) and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until the filing is firm, at least 1 hour. (The cake can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

7. To make the spiked cream, in a chilled medium bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer set at high speed, beat the cream, confectioners' sugar, optional rum, and vanilla until stiff. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch wide open star tip.

8. Transfer the roll to a long serving platter, seam side down. Garnish the cake with swirls of the whipped cream, and sprinkle with the walnuts and crystallized ginger. To serve, cut the cake diagonally into thick slices.