Ginger & Pears, A Classic Combination

Two thoughts from Tori: Pears are sold somewhat firm and can be ripened a few days at room temperature. And her favorite pear tip: Core half a pear with a melon baller; use a paring knife to cut off stem/blossom end.

Ginger-Pear Pancakes
(Serves 3 or 4)

Says Tori: "Fresh ginger brings a lively, warm, spicy flavor to these pancakes." You can use Comice, Anjou or Bartlett pears in this recipe.

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. fine sea salt
2 Tbs. raw or turbinado sugar
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 1/4 cups milk
1 tsp. firmly packed, grated fresh ginger
6 Tbs. (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 ripe Anjou or other sweet pear, peeled, cored and cut into 3/8-inch dice
1/2 cup ginger preserves or marmalade, warmed

In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk in the sugar, then make a well in the center. Pour the egg, milk, grated ginger with juice and 2 Tbs. of the melted butter into the well, then gradually whisk from the center outward until the ingredients are well combined but still a little lumpy; do not overmix or the pancakes will be heavy. Gently stir in the pear. The batter will be fairly thin.

Preheat a nonstick or cast-iron griddle over medium-high heat until a drop of water flicked onto the surface dances and evaporates instantly. Brush the griddle with a little of the remaining 4 Tbs. melted butter. Slowly ladle a scant 1/4 cup of the batter onto the griddle, centering the ladle over the batter so it spreads out into a circle on its own. Continue ladling out the batter to make as many pancakes as you can without letting them touch. If they do touch, separate with the edge of a spatula.

When the pancakes have begun to bubble in the center and a few of the bubbles have popped and the undersides are golden, after about 2 minutes, flip them with the spatula. Cook until golden on the other side, about 1 minute more, then transfer to a platter in a low (200 degrees F) oven to keep warm. Cook the remaining pancakes in the same way, adding butter to the griddle as needed.

Transfer the pancakes to warmed individual plates and serve immediately, topped with a dollop of warmed ginger preserves.

[Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Collection Series, "Breakfast," by Brigit L. Binns (Simon & Schuster, 2003)].

St.-André Cheese with Ginger Pears
(Serves 10)

According to Tori: "Spicy-sweet pears marry beautifully with the luxurious St.-André cheese. Select Bartlett, Bosc or Anjou pears. If St.-André cheese is unavailable, use another French triple-cream cheese, such as Brillat-Savarin or Explorateur, or with Brie."

1 lb. firm but ripe pears, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
3 Tbs. cider vinegar
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom
3 Tbs. finely chopped crystallized ginger
1 wedge (3/4 lb.) St.-André cheese, at room temperature
About 30 baguette slices, each 1/2 inch thick

In a small, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the pears, brown sugar, vinegar and cardamom. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then boil, stirring frequently, until the liquid thickens to a thick syrup and coats the pears, about 8 minutes. Mix in the crystallized ginger. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool briefly.

Arrange the bowl of ginger pears and the wedge of cheese on a platter. Accompany with the bread slices. Diners spread the cheese on the bread and top with the warm or room-temperature pears.

[Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Lifestyles Series, "After Dinner," by Kristine Kidd (Time-Life Books, 1998)].

Caramelized Pear Upside-Down Gingerbread
(Serves 9)
"In this recipe, sugar is mixed with butter for flavor. Rather than letting the sugar cook undisturbed to prevent crystallization, the butter-sugar mixture is stirred occasionally until it becomes light brown," says Tori.

8 Tbs. (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 firm but ripe, large pears, such as Comice or Anjou, peeled, cored and cut lengthwise into1/8-inch slices
1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger
1/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 egg, at room temperature, lightly beaten
3/4 cup light molasses
3/4 cup milk, at room temperature

In an 8-inch square, heavy aluminum cake pan placed over medium heat, melt 2 Tbs. of the butter. Add the granulated sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar melts and turns light brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Arrange the pear slices in the pan in 4 overlapping rows. Set aside.

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F.

Over a sheet of waxed paper, sift together the flour, baking soda, ground ginger, cardamom, cinnamon and salt. Stir in the fresh ginger. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the flat beater, beat the remaining 6 Tbs. (3/4 stick) butter until creamy. Add the brown sugar and beat until the mixture is pale and fluffy. Slowly drizzle in the egg, beating each addition until incorporated before continuing. Beat in the molasses.

Reduce the speed to medium-low and add the flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with the milk and beginning and ending with the flour. Beat just until combined. Pour the batter on top of the pears and spread it evenly to the edge of the pan. Bake until the top of the cake is puffed, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes.

Run a table knife around the edge of the pan and shake it to make sure the cake is not sticking. (If it is, set the pan over low heat and heat for 1 to 2 minutes, gently shaking it until the cake is free.) Place a serving plate upside down on the pan. Wearing oven mitts, invert the plate and pan together. Lift off the pan. Dislodge any pear slices that stick to the pan and arrange them on top of the cake. Serve at room temperature.