Danny Meyer and Tom Colicchio on humble beginnings and enduring legacy of NYC's Gramercy Tavern
Gramercy Tavern in the heart of New York City's Flatiron District is more than just a place to eat; it's a landmark in the culinary world, described by Food & Wine as "a Great American Restaurant."
This iconic establishment, now celebrating 30 years of "enlightened hospitality," is a destination for diners and has transformed the lives of its co-founders, Danny Meyer and Tom Colicchio.
From its maroon awning to the banged-up old bar and wall-to-wall antique furniture, Gramercy Tavern feels timeless. The menu of locally sourced, all-American classics offers fine dining without the pretense.
But the truth is, Gramercy Tavern almost didn't exist. Meyer, now a famous restaurateur known for Shake Shack and Eleven Madison Park, initially had no interest in opening a second restaurant following the successful launch of Union Square Cafe. That changed after a meeting with rising star chef Colicchio at the 1992 Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colorado.
"He said, 'You know, confidentially, my restaurant's about to go out of business and there's no one I'd rather partner with than you.' And it's kinda like if LeBron James said, 'I'd kinda like to play on your basketball team,'" said Meyer.
Yet when Gramercy Tavern opened on July 11, 1994, it still had a lot to prove. Meyer recalls facing immense pressure, feeling like a bullseye was painted on the restaurant owners' backs after it was featured on the cover of New York Magazine, posing the question, "The Next Great Restaurant?"
"New Yorkers were pretty quick to answer, no. Which was the right answer," said Meyer. "We weren't the next great restaurant. We might one day become that, but great restaurants are like brand-new baseball gloves. You gotta play catch for a long time before you break it in."
The glove is pretty well broken in by now, and as it turns out, many New Yorkers have played catch with it.
Over the years, Gramercy Tavern has become a staple in New York City's dining scene. The New York Times praised its "remarkably polished, complicated food" and "correct but casual" service. It even made a cameo in the pilot episode of "Sex and the City."
The vision for Gramercy Tavern was to blend European fine dining standards with the rustic comfort of an American tavern. Hospitality was as important as the food for Meyer.
"We'll do the shopping, we'll do the cooking, we'll serve it, we'll do the dishes, we'll provide a social environment in which you feel like you took a little vacation," he said. "But at the same time, we're gonna be the best element of coming home, which is you're gonna feel loved and you're gonna feel like you belong."
By the early 2000s, Meyer and Colicchio had so many other projects that they decided one of them should take full ownership of the restaurant. After much deliberation, Colicchio chose to step away, though he admits there are times he misses it.
"I don't know if I've regretted it. There are times I have walked by and said, you know, it would be nice," said Colicchio.
This month, the culinary world celebrated as Meyer and Colicchio reunited at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, commemorating 30 years of Gramercy Tavern and the colleagues who helped them along the way.
"It's great. It's like you get the band back together, come back from one night only," said Colicchio.
Looking ahead, Meyer is confident about the restaurant's future.
Mike Anthony, the current executive chef and partner, has been with Gramercy Tavern longer than Colicchio was, and Areta Ettarh, the No. 2 in the kitchen, is part of the next generation upholding Meyer's vision.
"The origin story of Gramercy Tavern was, I imagined that this place had been in my family since Gramercy Park was founded, Meyer said. "So it's been here forever. And guess what? It needs to be here forever as well."
