Phantom Gourmet: Felipe's Taqueria In Harvard Square
CAMBRIDGE - Whether it's tacos or tostadas, flautas or burritos, if it comes in a tortilla, chances are it makes for a fast, flavorful meal. While Felipe's Taqueria in Harvard Square has that perfect something to grab on-the-go, they also provide plenty of reasons to stick around.
"We're trying to provide a very comfortable, warm, inviting atmosphere," said owner Tom Brush. "We built a roof deck on top. We have a full bar on the roof, with full open sun all day long."
That's right. Though Tom and co-owner Felipe Herrera created a beautiful restaurant, complete with high ceilings, exposed brick and wood beams, if the weather is nice, nothing beats a margarita up on Felipe's massive roof deck.
While the view from the roof may leave you speechless, the food is just as spectacular.
Ordering at Felipe's may appear like your typical counter service line-up, but look closer and you'll find what makes eating here so special: fresh ingredients cooked over a wood-burning grill.
"Everything that we prepare here is fresh. The idea is, it's quick service, but the food itself is all made from scratch," Tom explained. "We introduced a hardwood grill and we feel it really has enhanced the flavors. It gives it that nice, smoky, woody flavor; very authentically Mexican."
Some of these authentic dishes include Baja-style Tacos made with fresh shrimp or haddock and capped with pickled cabbage and pico de gallo; crunchy Chicken Flautas smothered in lettuce, pico, sour cream and crumbled cotija cheese; spicy Pork Tamales served in a traditional corn husk; and Tostadas loaded with chorizo and drizzled with sour cream.
"A tostada is really a crispy corn tortilla that's flash-fried and eaten almost like a slice of pizza," Tom said. "They're really good."
For something really great, and really cheesy, order the Queso Fundido served with steamed flour tortillas.
"The Queso Fundido is actually a grated cheese or hard cheese that's melted until it starts bubbling and gets a little brown. We generally top that with chorizo sausage," described Tom. "It's an amazing dish; one of my favorites. You slice up strips of it, put it into a nice, soft tortilla, and then you can top that with a little pico de gallo. It's a delicious contrast of the hot melted cheese, the spicy chorizo and the cool onion, tomato and cilantro in the salsa."
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For some relatively lighter fare, Felipe's serves a tortilla salad made with tender chicken and crispy tortilla strips. There are also some shareable dishes like the Felipe's Special, boasting a basket of fresh chips alongside classic guacamole, chunky salsa and creamy queso dip, or nachos piled high with refried beans, Monterey jack cheese, guacamole, and sliced jalapenos.
"We've never had any complaints about the size of our nachos," Tom bragged. "It's a very, very solid portion and a good value. Keeping it off your hands isn't easy, but people seem to manage."
If you're here to indulge, the menu offers what's known as the Super Burrito: a 12-inch tortilla stuffed with your choice of rice, beans, meats and fresh veggies.
"They're just so delicious that even as daunting a task as it may seem, somehow people figure out a way to finish them."
No one rolls the behemoth burritos better than Felipe himself.
"Felipe is the master," said Tom. "He really is an expert and understands, and just moves like lightning. He's really quick."
You can even get your super burrito tossed into the fryer and slathered with homemade queso dip to create a crispy Chimichanga.
Though you can enjoy a cool cocktail with dinner, nothing refreshes quite like a scoop of their homemade frozen custard, available in classic chocolate or vanilla. Why use a spoon when you can get a cream-filled churro, perfect for dipping into some of that custard or in Felipe's special caramel and fudge sauces?
You can have it all - the frozen custard, the churro and the gooey dipping sauces - for under five bucks. It's a dessert that's more than just a menu item; it's the epitome of a great experience at an even greater value.
"One of the nice things about this business is the satisfaction that you get from satisfied customers," said Tom. "That really helps fuel and drives you to excel and keep pushing to develop the best possible food that you can."
Felipe's Taqueria is at 21 Brattle Street in Cambridge, and online at felipestaqueria.com.
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