Designer Patricia Norris 1931-2015
Michelle Pfeiffer and Al Pacino in Brian De Palma's "Scarface."
Patricia Norris, the Oscar-nominated costume designer who also worked as a production designer for such directors as David Lynch, Terrence Malick and Mel Brooks, died on Feb. 20, 2015 at her home in Van Nuys, Calif. She was 83.
By CBSNews.com senior producer David Morgan
Patricia Norris
Starting in the stock room of MGM's costume department in the mid-1960s, Patricia Norris soon graduated to designing, working with such directors as Howard Hawks, Michael Ritchie, Arthur Penn, Mel Brooks, Terrence Malick, David Lynch, Blake Edwards, Edward Zwick, Andrew Dominik and Steve McQueen.
Over her career she received six Academy Award nominations for Best Costume Design, and won an Emmy Award for David Lynch's "Twin Peaks."
Norris was also the only artist to receive lifetime achievement awards from both the Art Directors Guild and the Costume Designers Guild.
"Frances"
Left: Costume sketch by Patricia Norris for Jessica Lange for the 1982 biopic, "Frances," about the Hollywood actress, Frances Farmer.
"Rio Lobo"
One of Patricia Norris' earliest film credits was as a women's costumer for the John Wayne western, "Rio Lobo" (1970). Pictured at left: Jennifer O'Neill.
"Support Your Local Gunfighter"
Patricia Norris' first credit as costume designer was for the 1971 western comedy, "Support Your Local Gunfighter," starring James Garner and Suzanne Pleshette.
"Smile"
Melanie Griffith as a beauty pageant contestant in Michael Ritchie's 1975 satire, "Smile." Costume design by Patricia Norris.
"The Sunshine Boys"
George Burns and Walter Matthau as the reunited vaudeville team Lewis and Clark, in the Neil Simon comedy, "The Sunshine Boys" (1975). Also pictured: Lee Meredith. Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"The Missouri Breaks"
Marlon Brando in Arthur Penn's western, "The Missouri Breaks" (1976). Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Helter Skelter"
Steve Railsback as Charles Manson, pictured with other members of the Manson Family during his murder trial, in the CBS TV movie, "Helter Skelter" (1976). Wardrobe by Patricia Norris.
"Silent Movie"
Dom DeLuise, Mel Brooks and Marty Feldman in the comedy "Silent Movie" (1976). Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"High Anxiety"
Mel Brooks takes aim at the Alfred Hitchcock film, "The Birds," in his 1977 parody, "High Anxiety." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Capricorn One"
Sam Waterston, James Brolin and O.J. Simpson are three NASA astronauts coerced into faking a Mars landing, only to run for their lives in the 1978 thriller, "Capricorn One." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Days of Heaven"
Patricia Norris received her first Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design for Terrence Malick's 1978 period drama, "Days of Heaven," starring Brooke Adams and Richard Gere.
"Days of Heaven"
Linda Manz in Terrence Malick's "Days of Heaven." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"The Elephant Man"
Patricia Norris first worked with director David Lynch on the 1980 drama, "The Elephant Man," starring John Hurt.
"The Elephant Man"
David Lynch's "The Elephant Man" (1980). Costumes by Patricia Norris, who received her second Academy Award nomination.
"History of the World: Part I"
Gregory Hines and Mel Brooks in the 1981 comedy," History of the World: Part I." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"History of the World: Part I"
Dom DeLuise in the Mel Brooks comedy, "History of the World: Part I." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Victor/Victoria"
Patricia Norris earned her third Oscar nomination for the Blake Edwards musical comedy, "Victor/Victoria" (1982), starring Julie Andrews.
"Victor/Victoria"
James Garner, Julie Andrews and Robert Preston in Blake Edwards' "Victor/Victoria" (1982). Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Victor/Victoria"
Patricia Norris' costume designs for "Victor/Victoria."
"Frances"
Jessica Lange as Frances Farmer in "Frances" (1982). Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Scarface"
Al Pacino as Tony Montana in the Brian De Palma gangster epic, "Scarface" (1983). Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Racing With the Moon"
Sean Penn (left) starred in the period drama "Racing With the Moon." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"2010"
Patricia Norris' fourth Oscar nomination came for the 1984 science fiction film, "2010," the sequel to Stanley Kubrick's "2001: A Space Odyssey."
"2010"
Helen Mirren as a Soviet space commander in "2010." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Space Camp"
From left: Kelly Preston, Tate Donovan, Joaquin Phoenix (as Leaf Phoenix), Kate Capshaw, Lea Thompson, and Larry B. Scott in "Space Camp." Costumes by Patricia Norris.
"Blue Velvet"
After working as a costume designer with director David Lynch on "Elephant Man," Patricia Norris signed on as production designer for his 1986 mystery, "Blue Velvet" (starring Isabella Rossellini).
It was the first of nearly two dozen films on which Norris served as production designer - in some cases working simultaneously as costume designer.
"Sunset"
Norris' fifth Oscar nomination was for the costumes of the Blake Edwards comedy about Hollywood's silent era, "Sunset," starring Bruce Willis as cowboy star Tom Mix.
"Wild at Heart"
Nicolas Cage as Sailor and Laura Dern as Lula in the David Lynch noir, "Wild at Heart" (1990). Production design by Patricia Norris.
"Twin Peaks"
Patricia Norris won an Emmy Award for costume design, and was nominated for a second Emmy for outstanding Art Direction, for the David Lynch series, "Twin Peaks."
"Twin Peaks"
Sherilyn Fenn as Donna Hayward in David Lynch's "Twin Peaks." Costume and production design by Patricia Norris.
"Twin Peaks: Fire Walk With Me"
Kyle Maclachlan and Sheryl Lee in David Lynch's feature film follow-up to the "Twin Peaks" TV series, "Twin Peaks: Fire Walk With Me." Costume and production design by Patricia Norris.
"Lost Highway"
Patricia Arquette and Bill Pullman watch a mysterious videotape in David Lynch's "Lost Highway." Costume and production design by Patricia Norris.
Of her easy working relationship with Lynch, Norris told the Seattle Times, "We don't have to talk a lot. We sort of have the same definition of ugly.''
"The Hi-Lo Country"
Billy Crudup and Woody Harrelson as 20th century cowboys hanging on to the dying traditions of the Old West in "The Hi-Lo Country" (1998). Costume and production design by Patricia Norris.
"The Singing Detective"
Robert Downey Jr. starred in Keith Gordon's 2003 film version of the classic Dennis Potter TV series, "The Singing Detective." Costume and production design by Patricia Norris.
"The Assassination of Jesse James"
Brad Pitt as the leader of the James Gang in Andrew Dominik's "The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford" (2007). Costume design (and, uncredited, production design) by Patricia Norris.
The Assassination of Jesse James"
Casey Affleck in Andrew Dominik's "The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford" (2007). Costume design (and, uncredited, production design) by Patricia Norris.
The Assassination of Jesse James"
Zooey Deschanel and Casey Affleck in Andrew Dominik's "The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford" (2007). Costume design (and, uncredited, production design) by Patricia Norris.
"Killing Them Softly"
Patricia Norris was both costume designer and production designer for Andrew Dominik's 2012 crime thriller, "Killing Them Softly," starring Brad Pitt (left) and Ray Liotta.
"The Immigrant"
Joaquin Phoenix and Marion Cotillard in James Gray's 2013 period drama, "The Immigrant." Costume design by Patricia Norris.
"The Immigrant"
Joaquin Phoenix and Marion Cotillard in James Gray's 2013 period drama, "The Immigrant." Costume design by Patricia Norris.
"12 Years a Slave"
Patricia Norris received her sixth Oscar nomination for the costumes of the Academy Award-winning "12 Years a Slave" (2013).
A self-described student of history (she had studied archeology and palentontology at Stanford), Norris's research for "12 Years a Slave" was made difficult by the lack of visual references from the pre-Civil War South. Photography had not come into widespread use, and etchings from the 1840s would likely depict "the happy slave leaning against the tree eating his lunch.
"There is not a lot available that I found, and [so] you just go from your imagination," Norris told CBS News' David Morgan in 2014.
"12 Years a Slave"
Costume sketch by Patricia Norris for the character of Solomon Northup (Chiwetel Ejiofor) in "12 Years a Slave."
"12 Years a Slave"
Costumes by Patricia Norris for Steve McQueen's period drama, "12 Years a Slave" (2013).
"12 Years a Slave"
Costumes by Patricia Norris for Steve McQueen's period drama, "12 Years a Slave" (2013).
Natural fabrics were dyed and then distressed to appear aged or worn at the hems. They even had dirt applied that was acquired from the various filming locations. "There were five different plantations, all in Louisiana, and oddly enough a lot of them had different color dirt, from really dark brown to light sand color – don't ask why," Norris said. "And we were constantly dealing with the daily rain and the heat, and then it would turn to mud."
"12 Years a Slave"
Costume sketch by Patricia Norris for the character of Patsey (Lupita Nyong'o) in "12 Years a Slave."
"When you know the slave owners were responsible for clothing them and feeding them, you understood that it was cast-down clothes," said Norris, who worked backwards - designing clothes that would have been worn by the plantation owner's wife, daughters or maids 10 or 20 years earlier than the film's 1850s setting, then distressed to appear aged and worn down.
Norris said Patsey's clothes would have come from Mistress Epps, wife of the plantation owner - adding another dimension to her jealousy about her husband's attentions paid to the slave.
Mistress Epps, said Norris, would be "really pissed off, which I rather enjoyed doing. I always thought Patsy's clothes came from her and she would recognize them, but I never told [Paulson] that."
"12 Years a Slave"
Sarah Paulson as Mistress Epps in "12 Years a Slave." Costume design by Patricia Norris.
"I loved dressing her because she has the perfect figure for those types of clothes," said Norris.
"12 Years a Slave"
Chiwetel Ejiofor in "12 Years a Slave." Costume design by Patricia Norris.