Iconic Food #5: Katz's Pastrami Sandwich
Sure, you can make nice with the naysayers (most of whom are vegetarian -- not that there's anything wrong with that), but one bite of Katz's pastrami and political correctness flies out the window. Smoked, juicy and carved to perfection, just one taste of an over-stuffed, bulging Katz's pastrami sandwich will have you exclaiming to the world that this is, hands down, not just one of the best pastrami sandwiches you have ever had, but unequivocally and for sure the best pastrami ever prepared anywhere on the planet. You may even cry a little...it's that good.
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Eastern European Roots
At the turn of the last century, New York was home to massive numbers of immigrant families, many of whom settled in the crowded and cacophonous, Lower East Side of Manhattan. Jewish families were fleeing Eastern Europe in record numbers, bringing time-honored traditions with them -- many centered around food. A good meal often equaled good company, and a small deli on Ludlow Street soon became the epicenter of much of the neighborhood's hub. Founded by the Iceland Brothers, in 1903 the restaurant took on a new partner, Willy Katz. A few years later, Katz's cousin Benny joined the business, and together the cousins bought out the original founders. The business continued to grow and fellow immigrant, Harry Tarowsky, pooled his resources into the burgeoning business. The now-thriving establishment moved one block away to accommodate the construction of New York's brand new subway system, and there Katz's Deli was born.
American Patriotism
The deli continued to provide sustenance and community to an ever-growing customer base. The food was astonishingly good and the waiters intentionally sassy. Katz's pastrami became a much asked for staple, made according to the Eastern European tradition with seasonings brought from the old country along with a very slow, natural curing method.
The menu included smatterings of Yiddish and only here could you greet a haimish ponem and order up a chocolate babka. Katz's represented a common thread felt by all immigrant groups of that time — love for your roots and fierce loyalty to America.
When WWII broke out, the three owners of Katz's Deli all found themselves with sons serving overseas. The "Send a Salami to Your Boy in The Army" company slogan was born, as many families did just that.
New York Attitude
Katz's always had the famous among its following. During the early days of Yiddish Theater, actors, directors and stage hands would congregate there after shows. Actors like Bruce Willis and politicians like Al Gore became loyal customers, making their way to Katz's for a deli sandwich and a cream soda whenever they were in town. And then there was "When Harry Met Sally" and Meg Ryan's iconic "faking it" scene, enthusiastically filmed over a pastrami sandwich.
Katz's is still the place people gather to share a good meal with good company. The restaurant is fabled for the friendly ribbing customers can often expect from the wait staff and for the best pastrami sandwich you'll find anywhere...always served with one half sour and one sour pickle.
The years have gone by and the neighborhood has changed, as has the ownership, but the spirit of the original Katz's remains intact as does its legendary food.
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Corey Whelan is a freelance writer in New York. Her work can be found at Examiner.com.