The Dish: Chef Andy Husbands' barbecue recipes

Award-winning chef Andy Husbands started his career at age 14 with a job at a bakery. After culinary school, he worked at top kitchens across the country before returning to the Bay State.

In 1996, he opened his own restaurant, Tremont 647, and just last year, The Smoke Shop, featuring his award-winning barbecue. His crew was the first Northeastern team ever to win the Jack Daniel’s World Championship.

Here are some of Husbands’ signature recipes from his latest and fifth cookbook, “Pitmaster.”

Butcher Paper Brisket

In many regions, brisket cooks use aluminum foil part of the way through the cooking process to protect the meat and create an unctuous, moist interior-but not the traditional, old-school Texas pitmaster. In Texas, they skip the aluminum foil. The result is a beautiful, crusty exterior that is impossible to achieve using aluminum foil, but the meat is drier.

Butcher paper provides a solution that preserves bark but promotes a moister interior. The butcher paper protects the brisket the way the aluminum foil does, producing juicy meat, but unlike aluminum foil, the paper lets the steam escape, preserving the crisp crust.

There are only three ingredients in this recipe, so source the best possible meat and apply the kosher salt and pepper separately to ensure even coverage. This recipe is best on an offset smoker burning logs of pecan, hickory, or oak.

Prep Time: 30 minutes                                                  

Cook Time: 10 to 12 hours

Serves: 14 to 16 as part of a barbeque meal

Ingredients

1 whole untrimmed brisket (14 to 16 pounds, or 6.4 to 7.3 kg)

Kosher salt

Coarse black pepper

White bread, sliced onions, and jalapenos, for serving

Special Equipment

Offset smoker

Wood choice: pecan, hickory, or oak

Pink butcher paper

Directions

1. Remove the brisket from the packaging and rinse it under cold water. Pat dry with paper towels. Place on a cutting board fast side down. Trim away all of the hard kernel of fat that sits between the point and the flat portions of the brisket. “Square up” the brisket by trimming fat from along the sides, and if the edge of the flat is thin on one end, trim away an inch or two (2.5 to 5 cm) to create an even thickness. Trim any excess fat from the top of the flat but don’t worry about the silver skin. Flip the brisket meat side down and trim the fat cap to an even ¼-inch (6 mm) thick. We are not giving portion sizes on the kosher salt and pepper; every brisket is different. With your fingers, sprinkle a light coating of kosher salt on the fat side, then a light coating of the coarse pepper. Pat with your hand to help the seasonings adhere and then flip the brisket and repeat. Be sure to season the sides as well. If you prefer a peppery brisket, add a bit more. The balance is up to you, but we prefer a light hand with the kosher salt and pepper. Let the brisket sit at room temperature while you get your smoker ready.

2. Preheat the smoker to 275 °F (140°C) using pecan, hickory or oak.

3. Place the brisket fat side up and with the point positioned towards the hotter part of the smoker. Smoke for 4 hours and then flip the brisket fat side down. Smoke for an additional 4 hours or until the internal temperature reads 175 °F (80 °C) on a meat thermometer. Tear off two 3 foot (90 cm) pieces of butcher paper. Crisscross the pieces of paper and wrap the brisket as tightly as possible, securing with some masking tape.

4. Return the brisket to the smoker and continue to smoke until the internal temperature reaches 195 °F (90 °C), about an additional 2 hours. The paper should be oily and soaked with brisket fat. Rest the brisket for at least a ½ hour or hold in a warm cooler for up to 4 hours. Slice the whole brisket against the grain and serve with white bread, sliced onions, and jalapeños- no sauce please.

Storage: Wrap the room temperature brisket tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to a month. 

Classic Macaroni and Cheese

We grew up on Kraft macaroni and cheese. Homemade stovetop macaroni and cheese is almost as simple to make. Make your sauce, cook your macaroni, mix and serve.

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 20 minutes

Serves: 6 to 8

Ingredients

1 pound (455 g) elbow macaroni

2 cups (475 ml) whole milk

¼ cup (60 ml) water

4 tablespoons (55 g) unsalted butter, divided

3 tablespoons (24 g) all purpose flour

Tiny pinch ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 cups (450 g) shredded yellow Cheddar

¼ cup (40 g) shredded Parmesan cheese

Directions

1. Cook the elbow macaroni according to package instructions until al dente. When the pasta is done, strain well, place back in pan, and mix with 1 tablespoon (14 g) of butter.

2. While the pasta cooks, prepare the cheese sauce. In a bowl, combine the milk and water.

3. In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan over low heat, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 g) of butter. Add the flour and stir with a fork continually until the mixture (roux) is well combined and has a nutty aroma, about 2 to 3 minutes. The roux should not brown.

4. Slowly add the milk mixture to the roux, whisking until fully incorporated, Add the nutmeg, white pepper, and kosher salt. Increase the heat to medium-high to bring the mixture to a simmer, whisking frequently as it heats. Simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent scorching, until it is a little thicker than maple syrup and coats the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes.

5. Remove the sauce from the heat. Fold in the cheeses and stir well. Add the macaroni and taste for seasoning, adding kosher salt and pepper as needed. Serve hot.

Storage: Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to three days. 

Cornbread with Butter, Honey, and Sea Salt

This is the cornbread served at The Smoke Shop. There are many schools of thought on what makes cornbread traditional Southern cornbread: sugar vs. no sugar, flour vs. no flour. Luckily, we aren’t making any claims that this is a traditional Southern cornbread. In fact, it’s just the opposite. It’s what we grew up with in New England: cakey, light, a bit sweet, and craveable. But it’s best to not say how much butter you’ve used.

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 1 hour

Yield: About 24 small pieces

Cornbread ingredients

2 cups (400 g) granulated sugar, divided

3 ½ cups (438 g) all purpose flour

2 ½ cups (350 g) coarse yellow cornmeal

1 teaspoon table salt

1 tablespoons (9 g) baking powder

4 large eggs

1 ½ cups (355 ml) whole milk

1 ½ cups (355 ml) buttermilk

2 ½ teaspoons (38 mil) vegetable oil

½ cup (120 ml) melted butter

1 batch Honey Sea Salt Butter, softened

Honey sea salt butter ingredients

1 cup (225 g) salted butter, softened

¼ cup (85 g) wildflower honey

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon large flake sea salt, such as Maldon Sea Salt

Cornbread directions

1. Preheat the oven to 350 °F (180 °C, or gas mark 4). Coat a 13 x 9-inch (33 x 23 cm) baking pan with cooking spray and dust with 1 cup (200 g) of granulated sugar.

2. Sift together the flour, cornmeal, remaining 1 cup (200 g) of sugar, salt and baking powder.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, combine the eggs, milks, oil and melted butter. Mix on low for 2 minutes until combined. Turn off the mixer and add the dry ingredients in three batches, whipping on low after each addition until combined.

4. After all of the dry ingredients have been added, use a rubber spatula to scrape the bottom of the bowl and combine any remaining ingredients into the batter. Whip the batter on medium for 5 minutes.

5. Pour the batter into the center of the pan and let it spread naturally to the sides of the baking pan. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour until a toothpick inserted in the center of the bread comes out clean. It should be lightly golden brown on top.

6. Place a cooling rack and cool 10 minutes before cutting into 24 pieces. Spread softened Honey Sea Salt Butter over the corn bread pieces and serve warm.

Honey sea salt butter method

Place the butter, honey and kosher salt in a small stainless steel bowl and mix well with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon until fully incorporated. Fold in the sea salt.

Storage: Wrap tightly and refrigerate for up to two weeks. 

Spicy Collards

In our book, “Wicked Good Barbecue,” we featured a classic steward collards recipe. Here, we have an unconventional preparation of a classic barbecue side dish. The results are light, refreshing and spicy – the perfect foil to rich barbecue meats.

Prep time: 10 minutes

Cook time: 10 minutes

Serves: 6 to 8 as a side dish

Ingredients

2 tablespoons (28 ml) extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon (10 g) minced garlic

2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

2 bunches of collard greens, stems removed and leaves cut into 1/8 inch (3 mm) ribbons

Directions

1. In a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium high heat, heat the oil. Add the garlic, crushed red pepper flakes, and kosher salt. Stir continuously until garlic starts to brown, about 1 to 2 minutes. 

2. Add the collard greens. Use tongs to stir and toss the collard greens, coating with the oil and seasoning, until wilted, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning; a little more kosher salt might be needed. Serve immediately.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to three days. 

Gold Sauce

Gold sauce utilizes mustard as a base instead of typical Ketchup. Often found in South Carolina, the sauce provides the tang found in North Carolina vinegar sauces yet with the texture and consistency of a classic Kansas City-type sauce. This our favorite all around sauce and pairs well not only with classic barbecue but pork chops, hot dogs, and even as a potato chip dip.

Cook time: 20 minutes

Yield: 3 cups (750 g)

Ingredients

½ cup (120 ml) apple cider vinegar

¼ cup (60 ml) water

2 tablespoons (40 g) blackstrap molasses

¾ cup (255 g) honey

1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

Pinch ground nutmeg

1 cup (176 g) yellow mustard

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ cup (80 g) grated yellow onion

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Directions

1. Combine the honey, vinegar, water, molasses, maple syrup, thyme, white pepper and nutmeg in a small sauce pan over medium high heat. Bring to a boil., stirring continuously. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer gently for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Add the mustard and kosher salt, mix well, and simmer for 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and add the onion and red pepper flakes, if using. Serve hot or cold.

Storage: Refrigerate in a pint sizes (475 ml) Mason jar for up to two months.

Pickled Jalapeño 

This might be the most used pickle in our kitchens. We use them in eggs, salsas, sandwiches, micheladas, slaws, and on pretty much anything else we can think of. It’s best to always have a batch in your refrigerator.

Prep time: 10 minutes

Cook time: 5 minutes, plus 10 minutes cooling and a 1-day cure

Yield: About 1 quart (946 ml)

Ingredients

40 jalapeños, cut into ½ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) rings

2 cups (475 ml) white vinegar

2 cups (475 ml) water

3 tablespoons (42 g) kosher salt

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

1 large clove of garlic, peeled and smashed

1 teaspoon mustard seed

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 bay leaves

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

Directions

1. Place the sliced jalapeños in a quart-sized (946 ml) mason jar and set aside.

2. Combine the remaining ingredients in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, until the kosher salt and sugar have dissolved. Remove the brine from the heat and let sit for 10 minutes.

3. Pour the brine over the jalapeños, making sure they are entirely covered by brine. Let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Storage: Cover and refrigerate for up to three weeks. 

Half- Sour Pickles

Prep time: 20 minutes, overnight to cool brine, 24-hour brine, and then a 7-day cure

Yield: 1 pound (455 g) pickles

Ingredients

4 cups (946 ml) water

3 tablespoons (54 g) table salt

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed gently

2 whole allspice berries

2 bay leaves

1 ½ teaspoons whole coriander seeds

1 ½ teaspoons whole mustard seeds

1 ½ teaspoons whole black peppercorns

½ teaspoon dill seeds

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

4 springs of fresh dill

1 pound (455 g) whole Kirby pickling cucumbers

Special Equipment

Wide mouth quart sized (946 ml) Mason jar

Directions

1. Combine the water and salt in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil for 2 minutes. Transfer the brine to a bowl or a quart-sized (946 ml) Mason jar and cool completely. Then refrigerate overnight.

2. In a separate bowl, combine the garlic, spice, and fresh dill. Rinse the cucumbers and add them to the bowl of seasonings. Add ice water to cover and refrigerate overnight.

3. The next day, drain the ice water from the cucumbers and remove any leftover ice. Place the cucumbers standing upright in a quart-sized (946 ml) wide-mouth Mason jar. Add the spice mixture and pour the brine over the cucumbers to cover generously. Cover the jar and refrigerate for 7 days. Open the jar and enjoy. Pickles should be stored whole to retain their crunch. Slice them just before serving.

Note: Simply double the amount of garlic and fresh dill to make a fine kosher dill pickle

Storage: Refrigerate in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 weeks. 

Old-Fashioned Southern Caramel Cake

Prep time: 1 hour

Cook time: 1 hour

Serves: 12 to 14

Ingredients

1 cup (225 g) unsalted butter, room temperature

3 cups (600g) granulated sugar

6 large eggs

1 cup (230 g) sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 2/3 cups (341 g) cake flour

1 teaspoon table salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 batch of Southern Caramel icing

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 350 °F. Coat an 18 x 13-inch sheet pan with cooking spray and dust it with flour, knocking out any excess.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter, adding sugar gradually until the butter is light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, blending well after each. Add the sour cream and vanilla and mix well. Add the cake flour, salt, and baking soda, blending until fully combined. 

3. Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, about 15 to 20 minutes. Do not over bake. Cool the cake in its pan on a rack while you prepare the icing.

4. When the icing is ready, immediately pour it over the cake, spreading it quickly with a large offset spatula before it sets. (It’s fine if the cake is still warm; the icing will set as it cools.) Slice and serve warm with coffee or an ice cold glass of milk.

Storage: Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to three days

Southern Carmel Icing

Caramel icing is notoriously tricky to get right. Some Southerners say it takes years of practice. The key is to pay attention to the temperature as the icing cooks and whisk it constantly as it cools. Otherwise, it will become grainy. If the icing gets too cool to spread, it can be re-melted over low heat. Whip it again to spreading consistency.

Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

3 ½ cups (700 g) granulated sugar, divided

½ cup (120ml) boiling water

1 cup (235ml) evaporated milk

½ cup (112 g) unsalted butter

1 tablespoon (22g) light corn syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Special Equipment

Candy thermometer

Directions

1. In a small, heavy saucepan or skillet, cook ½ cup (100 g) of sugar over medium-low heat until melted and caramelized. Carefully pour boiling water into the pan and boil, stirring, until the caramel dissolves and the mixture is slightly syrupy, about 5 minutes.

2. In another saucepan, combine the remaining 3 cups (600 g) of sugar, evaporated milk, butter, and corn syrup over medium heat, stirring to melt the sugar. Attach a candy thermometer to the pan and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Add the caramel syrup and continue to cook, stirring until the mixture reaches 218 to 220 °F (approximately 105 °C). 

3. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately transfer the mixture to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat the icing until it cools and thickens just enough to hold its shape when the whisk is lifted. The icing should still be very warm and soft, pourable but not runny. Use immediately.

Note: Hitting the proper cooking temperature results in the best icing. If you aren’t sure, put a spoonful of icing on a cold plate. It should set up quickly, soft but not sticky or hard. If it is still sticky after a couple of minutes, return the icing to the saucepan, simmer for just a few minutes, and then do the “plate test” again. If the icing hardened on the plate test, it’s overcooked but you still may be able to save it: return the icing to the pan, whisk in a few tablespoons (45 to 60 ml) of heavy cream, bring it to a simmer, and test it again. 

Day Drinking with Sweet Tea

We’re heathen types and have been known to partake in the Devil’s Juice. If you want to join us, may we suggest doctoring your sweet tea with bourbon and Campari? (For a lower alcohol version, skip the bourbon). Be forewarned, more than two and you may burn the hog.

Prep time: 10 minutes

Yield: 1

Ingredients

Crushed ice

2 ounces (60 ml) of your favorite bourbon

1 ounce (28 ml) of Campari

Couple of dashes of walnut bitters

Sweet tea, to fill the glass

Directions

Fill a pint (475 ml) glass with crushed ice and add the liquors and bitters. Fill the remaining space with sweet tea, give a quick stir and enjoy.

Sweet Tea

Many barbecue restaurants in North Carolina are in the Bible Belt: closed on Sundays and instead of bottled beer, patrons drink sweet team from large Styrofoam cups filled with crushed ice. We suggest ditching the Syrofoam for a real glass, but the crushed ice is a must.

Prep time: 15 minutes

Yield: 1 gallon (3.8 L)

Ingredients

4 cups (946 ml) water plus 12 cups (2.8 L) cold water, divided

¼ cup (85 g) honey

¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 whole cloves

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

10 bags of black tea

Crushed ice, for serving

Lemon wedges, for serving

Directions

In a 2- quart (1.9 L) saucepan over high heat, combine 4 cups (946 ml) water, honey, sugar, peppercorns, cloves and orange zest, stirring occasionally until the mixture boils. Remove from the heat and add the tea bags. Give it a quick swirl and then let it sit for 5 minutes. Strain the liquid through a fine mesh sieve into a 1-gallon (3.8 L) pitcher and add the remaining 12 cups (2.8 L) of cold water. Refrigerate until serving. Serve over crushed ice. A lemon wedge is always nice.

Storage: Keep refrigerated for up to five days.