Research at U of M aims to create hop variety that thrives in Midwest climate
STILLWATER, Minn. -- John Brach isn't growing any ordinary crop. His picturesque farm in Stillwater is home to than an acre of land for hop production, yielding 700 pounds a year or about 16,000 gallons of beer.
His love for beer led to the hop-growing hobby after a career as a civil engineer.
"Part of retirement for me was learning something new every day and I'm still learning something new about hops," Brach said.
But the Midwest's humidity isn't kind to the cone-shaped flowers that flavor our favorite beers—the environment here makes the hops more susceptible to diseases like mildews. That challenging climate is a barrier to business and it's why most are grown in the Pacific Northwest, which is more hospitable to hops.
"Those diseases can be devastating," Brach said. "We can grow them here but we have much more need to manage those diseases with chemicals, which is unfortunate."
Brach's land is the site of ongoing research in an effort to change that.
Joshua Havill, a PhD candidate in the Department of Agronomy and Plant Genetics at the University of Minnesota, is growing some hop varieties there. He's been studying the genetics of hops and diseases that impact them for more than five years.
The work includes studying hundreds of different plant varieties. He works with professor Gary Muehlbauer to identify the types that are the most resistant to disease and then crossbreeds the plants with the favorable traits. The goal is to find a hop more resilient in our climate, but still has a good flavor profile for beer.
"Finding a way to diversify the agriculture landscape as well as meeting the needs of farmers and products users—the brewers," Havill said of his research. "There's this massive interest in new flavors and aromas but in order to meet that demand, you need to be able to identify a hop that grows well."
They've discovered some promising selections, he said, that could contribute to what he calls an Upper Midwest hop production "renaissance." Only 4% of hops are grown in states outside the Pacific Northwest, with most of them cultivated in Washington, according to Hop Growers of America.
"I would guess in the next one to two, maybe three years, we'll have a University of Minnesota hop variety," he said.
Havill studies and experiments different plants in a greenhouse on campus, but observes how they responds to different growing environments, including Brach's farm in Stillwater. He also works with the U.S. Department of Agriculture and other hop farmers in Minnesota.
Pitchfork Brewing across the Croix River in Hudson buys all of Brach's supply of hops. Co-owner Mike Fredricksen said customers appreciate the local connection.
"I think the flavor you get is a little better than something that's mass produced and comes from far away," he said.
He and Brach both hope the University of Minnesota research finds success so other brewers in Minnesota and Wisconsin can experience that local producer relationship.
"If they're successful with that, that would be a huge boon for Minnesota growers," Brach said. "It would be a lot easier for us to grow the plant."