Michigan's sole 2024 James Beard Award winner uses spotlight to create change
(CBS DETROIT) - Some of the world's best talents are found in some of the most unlikely places.
One great example is at the restaurant Sozai in Clawson. Owner and sushi chef Hajime Sato grabbed the national spotlight after earning the 2024 James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Great Lakes region.
While Sato's multi-hour, chef-selected omakase experiences put Sozai on the map, he believes the recognition should go to the principles he's stuck to while perfecting his craft over the past 35 years.
Omakase is naturally a very personal dining experience, and it's no different at Sozai, but when folks belly up to their sushi bar, they might find themselves just as interested in the person serving them as they are in the food itself.
"This is my temp job. Still doing it," Sato, who opened Sozai in 2020, said.
For someone who doesn't take himself too seriously, there's nothing casual about how the best chef in the Great Lakes region turned his so-called "side gig" into an authentic culinary journey to his home country of Japan.
"It's called omakase, which means chef's choice," Sato said. So you'll have two to three choices. After that, I am going to ask you some questions, and we'll get going. What do you like?"
You won't find a California roll on this menu, only the authenticity Sato brings from his Japanese roots.
"Americans think 'traditional' sushi bar is ordering California rolls and spicy tuna. I'm not the traditional one. That is the thought that I'm struggling with sometimes, too, right?" Sato said, reflecting on the disconnect between authentic Japanese recipes and those Americans are used to.
He knows he's one of many sushi chefs bringing authentic Japanese traditions to diners, but he's one of few who does it with sustainability as a focal point.
"So many people going to the fancy restaurant and doing the same thing over and over and are literally destroying one fish, one mammal, one vegetable at a time along the way. So many species are already extinct. If it's endangered, you should not be eating it," he explained.
Which leads to some pretty interesting Omakase selections.
"Let's say I put invasive sea snails on the menu. Do you think people are going to order it? People are like, 'I would never, ever order it,' but it tastes like clams, just a different shape. It's actually pretty good. That is more of the mental state that I want. People to be open-minded," he said.
Sato has been championing the sustainability movement in cooking for nearly half his career, and he finds people finally starting to listen following his James Beard recognition.
"Sustainability-wise, to get to the point, that has nothing to do with the food, but I'm passionate about it, and I'm talking about it endlessly, too. Before James Beard, I was just like 'ah,' and no one wants to listen to me, but now, come on, listen to me now," Sato said. "I'm talking about sustainability, I'm talking to you about the authentic Japanese food, I'm talking about sake. That, to me, is more important than anything else."
He's next in line to pass down this thousand-year-old culinary craft, but that's only if future generations also follow his lead on how to preserve it.
"I'm here to save the ocean, man," Sato said. Like seriously, that's my goal."
While Sato is proud of winning the James Beard Award for 2024, he says there will be another winner next year. He hopes his message of sustainability lasts the longest, especially with sushi.